UKC

Benny Beg

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 Flinticus 06 Oct 2012
Anyone climb / boulder here? Looking for some bouldering traverses or short routes which I can do without a rope. Seems there are easy sport routes here which should translate into straight forward high ball boulder problems.
 digby 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Flinticus:

Don't think it's up to much for bouldering. It's a peculiar formation of vertical limestone(?) with deeply incut holds that are pretty uniform over the whole extent of the face. Still, worth going and having a look and a play, if not too far away.
OP Flinticus 06 Oct 2012
Thanks, think i will sometime.
 Jamie B 06 Oct 2012
In reply to Flinticus:

I reckon you should be able to get some pumpy traverses out of it. Up-problems may require a little imagination, but the landings are reasonable.
In reply to Flinticus: There are two traverses listed in the guide - both anti-social if done as sports climbs and others are about! The part of the crag before the first bolted section, has now been opened up due to vegetation removal and looks like it could be suitable for some easy low level bouldering (not that I am a boulderer). Some of the routes could be done solo, but you would have to watch the tops. The other crag (generally unknown and unused) over the road may be worth a look - I've done some trad there, but it's was abit overgrown and tick infested.
 Nigel Thomson 06 Oct 2012
In reply to digby: Believe it or not it's actually a rather unusual formation of quartz dolerite. I would agree it's not really that great for bouldering.
 pebblespanker 07 Oct 2012
In reply to the weegy:

The first section could give a few problems if you do eliminates and a few from sits, there is a proliferation of large footholds/handholds which makes pure problems mostly easy. Rock is odd and takes getting used to, lots of what look decent holds,edges are crap. Have traversed the whole of the first low section (in trainers I think) L to R and it makes a good warm up at VB-V0 ish. There may be milage in working a low level traverse but as have never looked at it can't suggest how hard it could be but suspect it could be quite hard given the nature of the rock.

On the main crag the large breaks will make traversing eliminate too but there is some potential. Beware of soloing until used to the rock as it is unusual and often technical in a non-obvious way

If bouldering in grassy areas be wary of 'stealthed' dog turds ... and if you do anything worthwhile bang it up on here. Better bouldering available down the road in Stirling including an excellent long V5 traverse at Wolfcrag.

Good luck
 Taurig 08 Oct 2012
In reply to Flinticus:

Did a bit of top roping there a few months ago. It wasn't bad, but I wouldn't rush back. Strange rock that almost looks like a man made wall, a view over a farmers field and as mentioned, a lot of dog turds about. All in all, just didn't like the vibe of the place.

Regarding bouldering, you could do it, but as it's all vertical at most and not hugely difficult I think you'd be better off somewhere else.
 tony 08 Oct 2012
In reply to pebblespanker:

> Better bouldering available down the road in Stirling including an excellent long V5 traverse at Wolfcrag.

Or up the road a wee bit at Glen Lednock.

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