/ Wintours Leap - an early season venue?

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Owen W-G - on 01 Feb 2013
I've only been there the once, 5ys ago, did Notung and Yesterday's Dreams.
The following are in my wishlist there.

How is it as a Feb/Mar venue? Is it getting much sun? How many days to dry? Any of the to-do list to be avoided this side of Spring-proper?

Papillon E2 5b *
Flyover E3 6a **
Never Say Die E2 5c *
Kangaroo Wall E2 6a ***
Big Fly Direct E1 5a ***
Valley Forge E2 5c *
Age of Enlightenment E1 5b *
AJM - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

The last time I went there in very wet conditions, I was on Fly Wall. Papillon would have been dry but the other two on your list had damp streaks. That was November?

Bear in mind that only North Wall really gets the sun before lunch.

Btw, Papillon is fun although the crux is a lot easier if you can reach (I could, my missus couldn't) from the better holds. I also did the E3 left of Freedom, that's quite fun, some nice moves.
Stone Muppet - on 01 Feb 2013
Would not recommend. After winter freezing and even just heavy rain, there tends to be quite a lot of loose rock. The Wye valley sheds its skin every year!

I think AJM is being pessimistic about North wall, it faces WSW (unlike most of the rest of the crag which faces WNW) so is one of the quicker walls to dry. But I wouldn't rush to climb there at this time of year anyway. I mean, er, go right ahead and start removing choss for my mid summer trip ;-)
Stone Muppet - on 01 Feb 2013
Saying all that, the only two routes on your list I have done are the last two and I reckon they'd probably be alright so long as the crag is dry. You can add Childhood's End to your list while you're in that area.

The left end of fly wall is fairly quick drying as well (Papillon). The right end is slower to dry out (Big fly direct). Flyover is in between the two.
AJM - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Stone Muppet:

I made no comment about dryness on North Wall! As I said, I was on Fly Wall, hence my comments were limited to the three routes he mentioned there.

I must get back to Wintours more this year. So much to do...
Stone Muppet - on 01 Feb 2013
Reading comprehension fail. If you permute the words in AJM's first reply, my objection makes sense It turns out we agree that north wall gets the most sun.
Mark Morris - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: Have climbed on North Wall on Feb. 15th before now in shorts and t-shirt. It catches sun well, and trees have been cleared from the bottom in the last couple of years.

The comments about loose rock should not go under estimated though. It's been a very wet winter.

Boulders@Cardiff on 01 Feb 2013 - 93-96-174-158.zone4.bethere.co.uk
In reply to Owen W-G:

In regards to the loose rock, I was there about three weeks ago for a wander and a chunk (the size of a phone box or two) has fallen off the far right of the GO wall. I don't think any routes are affected, just be sure to keep your lid on at the bottom of the crag.
stvredmond - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: dont forget to add wurlitzer and surrealist (Last pitch) to your list. or if you fancy something different then sleight of hand is brilliant and feels about e2 for the shear sustained natur of it. or for the best vs experience (maybe a bit low in the grade for what your looking for tho, then look at angles girdle?
Stone Muppet - on 03 Feb 2013
Yes +1 for Wurlitzer, and also Big Brother (north wall E2 or E3 direct though I've not done the latter)
Mark Davies PK on 03 Feb 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

Wintours is climbable all year round. Rockfall is possible all year round!
drysori - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

Wintours can be great this time of year. As said, north wall gets most Sun, but most route can be ok and seepage isn't a big problem. Definitely be wary of loose rock tho. Shorn cliff and wyndcliffe are viable too, wyndcliffe catches lots of Sun.
Ollie B - on 04 Feb 2013
In reply to Wil Treasure:

At North wall again on saturday, in the sun from 10am onwards, climbed in just a pair of jeans and a long sleeve tshirt. Some loose stuff but nothing more than wye valley normal amounts.~


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