/ back in the game..

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Flejks on 09 Mar 2013 - whois?
This evening i went back to my local wall for the first time in a very long time. Haven't climbed much at all in the last few years after we got kids basically. So, pretty unfit and all that. But somehow ended up having a 3-hour session (cant believe i actually managed that long...!) and i feel absolutely elated!! i felt surprised how my maximum strengt wasnt worse (still could get up 6as). now obviuosly completely shattered but feels sooo good!! and it felt so good to have my arms pumped !!! Now, i guess the next task/ challenge is to negotiate some further sessions, time off with the missus... and start planning trips with the juniors! Yehey!

any experiences getting back to climbing after a long break?
Radioactiveman - on 09 Mar 2013
In reply to Flakes:

Had 3 months of due to house bashing and winter climbing.

Did too much too soon and had an irritated bicep tendon and the first pully in my "up yours finger"

Wasnt doing a mega amount 3 times a week but it was the bouldering that did for me.
AlanLittle - on 09 Mar 2013
In reply to Flakes:

Er yes. Be careful. I started again a few years back after a long layoff. I found I had no endurance but could still remember how to do moves. So anything pumpy was a major challenge, but I was quickly back on vertical/slabby 6b's, thinking "ok, I know how to do these". And acquired my first ever finger pulley tear within three months of starting to train again. Oops. Swallow your pride, take your time, don't be in too much a hurry to re-live former glory.

More pride-swallowing might be useful in the direction of belaying technique. You don't say how many years you've been away, but in my case it was well over ten, and I discovered that I had a lot to re-learn in terms of modern sport belaying technique. My old skool, trad belayer, "lock the plate and hang on for grim death" approach to catching falls was unlikely to kill anybody, but wasn't necessarily particularly relaxing for the belayee. I had to accept that I had to change my ways and ask my new climbing partners for some tips. I even did a course.

That all sounds very negative. It's great, I'm delighted to be back. Have fun.
luke obrien - on 16 Mar 2013
In reply to AlanLittle: I've had a few years on and off with kids. I agree that it make sense to build it up slowly. I popped finger tendons by rushing progress when it was going well. Short sessions and often works for me now instead of monster sessions when I can. Injuries always seem to crop up late in the session when I really should have stopped.

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