UKC

Was wondering about the logistical side of climbing coronation street in cheddar?

Should I take a small pack with supplies...or go fast and light Forecast is very cold, so thinking I might have to take a down jacket for belays so will need a small bag to carry it.

Is it worth running any easy pitches together to speed things up? I remember some one once telling me that one of the fixed belays (after the shield pitch) is crap and it's worth belaying higher up the next pitch where you can back stuff up with wires?

And any other advice, tips or tricks?

In reply to Kemics: If it's going to be cold a down jacket is a very good plan, you'll spend a lot of time shivering otherwise. Some food is not essential but will feel good when you're half way up.

For the pitches, it's usual to run the first two easy pitches together then do the rest as described in the guide (something like one easy 5b pitch, shield pitch, 5b pitch and 4c final pitch.) If it looks like you can get a belay higher up after the shield pitch itd be worth it, the pegs are pretty manky and not the easiest to back up.

Other than that just try and get on it early, before anyone else. If you're reasonably quick you can be back on the ground with enough time to get a few more routes in before it gets dark.

In reply to Kemics:

Um, you might be over-analysing it a bit?
It's only 6 pitches. You can be in the cafe for lunch. Take a belay jacket though but no pack.

The shield is intimidating but easier than the pitch above!

If any of the pegs are still in, don't trust them; lots of gear in the crack.

The bottom may be a bit greasy. It improves further up.

In reply to Kemics: You can do it easily in 4 pitches by running the first two pitches together and the last two pitches.

In reply to Kemics:

Yeah agree with all he above.

IIRC th penultimate belay above the final 5b pitch is poor so my mate ran the last two pitches into one.

Shield belay is OK., you can get a couple of small wires and there's loads of pegs.

First two pitches (run into one) are easy enough you could wear some thin gloves if it's very cold and early.

Top route.

In reply to Kemics:

I've done it a couple of times...make sure you do it with a partner who can lead through...changing belays on some of the cramped awkward stances is a real pain....you can be up it in 3 hours, so the only real concern is getting cold on the stances...

My beta -don't do it when its cold. Unless you are the hardy sort it will be cold enough on a mild day.

In reply to Dan Arkle:

You could set up belays almost anywhere on the route.

It isn't the warmest place to be in winter. Pockets of choc etc.

If you're feeling timid at any point, then press on. Gear and holds come.

The walk down might be easier in shoes of some kind, it wasn't the easiest to find based on the guide book when I did it, but then I'm not local and prone to mistakes.

Have fun.

In reply to Kemics:

If it's any help, in 2009 the fixed gear at the belay after The Shield consisted of two old pegs plus rap tat in a horizontal crack on the left, plus a slightly better peg a couple of feet to the right in the same horizontal crack, just right of a moveable block. Lacking a knife I was unable to remove the rap tat which prevented clipping directly into the pegs. So not ideal. This belay is actually at the base of the lefthand of two grooves, of which the route actually goes up the other one where gear is available fairly soon. I recall probing in the lefthand groove directly above the belay - wherein lurk Rameses and Lionheart, I believe - and finding just within reach a good wire placement of some sort that made everything feel more secure; somewhere between Rocks 2 and 6, I think, but I'm not going to put that in writing....oops! I wasn't carrying anything larger than a Friend #3, but my impression is that something like a #4 might be useful in the break a bit left of the belay.

I recall,too, at the previous belay at The Pedestal, an assortment of old fixed gear plus a low horizontal crack that accepted a rattly Friend #3 but that may well offer snugger accomodation to something slightly larger.

In reply to Dan Arkle:

I guess he's trying to get it done before the bird ban, which must be soon. I reckon its better as a late Autumn route than an early Spring one as it hopefully will have shedded any loose rock and it'll be much cleaner (it can get really soily in places).

In reply to HappyTrundler:
>...make sure you do it with a partner who can lead through...

+1 for that, though my mate got frozen on the stance after the Shield as I took time on the pitch above - so I second the warm clothing suggestion too. Don't need a pack.

Brilliant route.

In reply to Kemics:

Don't start off behind another party ! when we did it, we were lucky enough to be the first people on the route that year (loads of gardening needed on pitch 1 !) but afterwards it was just really enjoyable. We watched about 5 other parties behind us - one of those parties was obviously taking their time because after we had returned to the car after a leisurely afternoon drinking tea and then strolling back to the car in the gathering gloom - the third party were just topping out, the fourth were about halfway up and in for an epic or some abandoned gear and the fifth party were already bailing out.

In reply to Kemics: I just got back from climbing in the Gorge and Coronation Street looks nice and dry.

In reply to Kemics: The first pitch will freeze your fingers, then they will get hotaches. I wore all the layers i had, got a little cold on belay, but warmed up whilst climbing. We took a bag up with shoes, water and a malt loaf.

After the first pitch the climbing improves drastically, plus your fingers will warmed up by now. The 3rd belay has 3 rusty pegs, a loose block and not much else. The crack a meter to the right at the start of the next pitch has bomber gear so if in doubt, use that.

Linking the last two pitches works fine, just watch out for lacing the harder pitch, then having no gear for the last easy slab.

Take a camera, it is absolutely brilliant up there and worth a few belay photo's to impress your friends.

In reply to AlexanderRyanBanks:

you're harder than I am. I whimped out today because it was snowing

In reply to Kemics: I think you had pretty good reason We just had a chill to deal with. Next time! I look forward to seeing your comments on the route! Good luck.

In reply to Kemics:

Hey Kemics if you have not seen the following article it is well worth a read with a superb hi-res image of Coronation Street just to get the juices flowing!
http://www.willerup.com/climbing/cstreet.html
Hope you get on the route someday as it is a top day out!

In reply to Kemics: That's a good job... you're so skinny you'd frozen to death and there would have ensued a toni kurz style rescue with us trying desperately to throw you a rope but you just fading away Better luck next time. For what it's worth, there is a slightly better hanging belay after the traverse if you continue a few feet left. It's still not great but atleast you can stand on a foot sized ledge. And I thought the penultimate belay was pretty steady as they go...

In reply to mike kann:

If only I wasn't weak as a kitten I'd have a decent power/weight ratio :P

I did envision something similar to the scenario describe...i'm even half German

In reply to Kemics: Glad we didn't go then because if you're Kurtz I'm one of the other three that died sooner (obviously I'd have to be Hinterstoiser but that would be little compensation).

In reply to Kemics:

You've changed man!