UKC

I have started training on a beastmaker 2000 at home, but I find that I am never fully warm before starting properly, which is obviously a bad idea. Just wondering what other people do to warm up for a fingerboard session at home.

In reply to Shawty: I have one of those little grip master things and one of those cheapo hand grip trainers. I just do loads of quick reps on those to get some blood flowing and warm myself up, then normaly a few small sets of pull ups on the jugs of the beastermaker before then gradually building up to harder things.

In reply to Shawty: I use a "spikey" to warm up and increase circulation to my fingers before and after using Beastmaker, board or doing weighted hangs. This has been very effective in reducing injury. I warm up big muscle groups by doing push and pull ups... gradually moving from supporting my weight to one or two complete pullups (using a pull up bar that fits into a door frame if in the house). If I use my Beastmaker with my board I include 15 mins easy problems on big holds on the board first and then pull on with medium sized crimps a few times.

In reply to is2:


Pardon my ignorance....but what's a spikey?

In reply to Fraser: Its a sprung metal ring that you roll up and down each finger. Based upon acupuncture rings. You can get them at Eden Rock in Carlisle, possibly also the Depot in Leeds / Nottingham, climbnewcastle and Sunderland climbing wall.

In reply to Shawty: I have a few juggy doorframes in my house, so these help. I also begin using the biggest holds on the Beastmaker (middle tier centre one and middle tier outer one/s) and doing some pull ups.

Got a warm up from a cousin who's into sword fighting of some sort. He recommended flicking your fingers out from a closed grip, really pushing the fingers out, 30 times in a row, 3 times to make 90. Hell of a pump by the end, I was surprised.

In reply to Shawty:
10 second.hang off big slopers, 10 chinups on jugs (i have a simulator as well.as the bm2000) jog on the spot a bit, quick 20 pressups, then a 10-20 second hang on the good crimps, then usually a few 3 finger repeaters on the good crimps before going to 2 fingers or and thinner holds.

In reply to Shawty:
I found the best thing was to put a chair in-front of the door frame. Then hang for a while moving around the larger holds with your feet on the chair. It takes me about 5 minutes of this to warm-up.

In reply to is2:

This really intrigues me, don't suppose you have a photo?

Also thanks for the replies, this is all really good advice!

In reply to Shawty:

There is a face book page facebook.com/spikymassager. If you search for it there is a spiky picture viewable without going into facebook. I've had one for a year or so now and it is brilliant for warming up and also really eases any aches after climbing hard.