/ North Wales Route Recommendation

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highlanderwolf - on 19 Apr 2013
I will be in North Wales for two days this summer in the company of my wife, her sister and brother in law.

I don't know the area well and am looking for a selection of possible routes, so we can be flexible if there is rain to dodge. I am experienced and can lead E grade climbs however the others cannot and the girls although keen are easily intimidated. I'd be really grateful for some suggestions. Single or multi-pitch, with non-exhausting approaches, severe(ish) or easier, and most importantly with bomber gear.

Many thanks John
Bulls Crack - on 19 Apr 2013
In reply to highlanderwolf:

If you have 2 cars I recommend Outside Edge/Ordinary route on Cwm Silyn + the Nantelle ridge...although that's a big day out

Otherwise Idwal Slabs?
richparry - on 19 Apr 2013
In reply to highlanderwolf:

Lots of good easy routes in the Moelwyns.
veteye on 19 Apr 2013
In reply to highlanderwolf:
The easiest approach is supplied by the more popular routes at Tremadog and one step in the clouds and poor man's peuterey are round about severe/hard severe.There are other lower grades here too.
There are loads of good routes in the pass(Llanberris), albeit with steeper and longer approaches, and probably more intimidating exposure.Wrinkle is a good V Diff, possibly with less gear than some in that grade.Flying Buttress is an excellent V Diff.Nearby is another good V Diff with exposure,Spiral Stairs.Crackstone Rib is a really good Severe.
You probably need to get hold of either Paul Williams old guide(still published)Rock climbing in Snowdonia, or the Ground Up North Wales Rock guide.
If the weather is poor in snowdonia and possibly Tremadog, you could always try Holyhead Mountain on Anglesey.
Ann S on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to highlanderwolf:

Hi John-can I recommend Clogwyn Cyrau just above Betys y Coed. Pleasant walk in if you follow the directions carefully. Good rock with short single and 2 x pitch climbs with bomber belays at top. There are VDiffs listed but we did the excellent 3* severe Conwy corner; Long Climb direct is a 2* severe and then Jingling wall, bit more tricky at HS 4b. The crag should not feel intimidating and has easy descents with a little bit of bushwhacking. If the weather does turn bad on you then you have a quick retreat back to the coffee shops of Betys.
Tony the Blade on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to highlanderwolf:

There will be others here that can (and will) offer greater experience and advice regarding N Wales venues, however, I'd like to chip in with...

I've had some cracking days out with relatively inexperienced climbers on Holyhead Mountain. Great walk-in and some terrific routes.

But like I said, locals can offer a greater depth of knowledge.
highlanderwolf - on 20 Apr 2013
Thank you very much everyone. I'll look at the guidebook and get more details on all of these. I'm very grateful (and open to more suggestions).

David Rose - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to highlanderwolf: Carreg Alltrem is a lovely spot. Fantastic rock, some great mild VSs and severes, good gear, very scenic: a joy. About a mile walk-in, but flat.
Coups - on 20 Apr 2013
Amphitheatre Buttress. A long mountain day, multi-pitch and great fun.
silo - on 20 Apr 2013
In reply to highlanderwolf:Leave them some where to do a nice walk and find your self a climbing partner! Then meet them later in pub with a good beer garden.Eveyone's happy
highlanderwolf - on 20 Apr 2013

Thanks again. The beer garden suggestion sounds favourite ;-) but I'll probably go with one of the others. They all sound great

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