In reply to Brian Pollock:
It seems like I might be better incorporating more specificity into my training. I have noticed that I am definitely underperforming on routes due to starting off the back of a pretty full on bouldering session. My performance tends to drop off after 2 or so routes at 7A/7A+ and I struggle to complete routes without rests.
Assuming I want to train strength, power endurance and aerobic endurance would the following be a better idea for making more pronounced long term gains in specific areas whilst maintaining other areas, how does this sound?
Strength:
2 x 2-3 hour bouldering sessions focussing on problems at my limit
1 x 1.5 hour beastmaker / fingerboard session (i.e. 45 degree beastmaker board at Glasgow)
1 x 4 hour sport routes session, aiming for volume mostly below my limit (Say 6B+ to 7A).
1/2 x trad mainly for fun.
Power Endurance:
2 x 2-3 hour bouldering sessions focussing on volume below my limit (Font 6A-Font 6C)
2 x 4 hour sport routes session, aiming for good mix of volume/intensity (6C-7B).
1 x 1.5 hour Beastmaker / fingerboard session
1 x Trad for fun.
Aerobic Endurance:
3 x 4 hour sport routes session, aiming for volume (F6B+ - 7A)
1 x Beastmaker / Fingerboard
1 x bouldering session focussing on volume below my limit (Font 6A-Font 6C)
1 x trad for fun.
Would it be better to alternate these on one week basis or focus on each schedule for longer, say 2-3 weeks or more?
I understand a lot of what works will come down to the individual and avoiding injuries so there would be room for tweaking if something felt too intense / not intense enough (I doubt it).