UKC

Directly up from heart of darkness belay, between the VS corner of Razorbill and the E3 crack of ice breaker. At least one hanger bolt on the smooth wall but another chap thought he could see a second further up. Any ideas what they are doing there? Seemed very out of place.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Awaiting rapid removal I hope.

Absolutely no place or excuse for bolts here

In reply to Owen W-G:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=521156&v=1#x7029091

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=374248&v=1#x5424600

Is this a magic reappearing bolt?

In reply to Owen W-G:

Big deal. If you don't like the bolts just don't clip them.

Disclaimer - this is not my opinion and I am attempting to be ironic.

In reply to Jamie B: I removed a bolt from a Gary Gibson E6 on Mowing Word last year. It looked suspiciously new, and I do wonder if someone unknown has replaced it and added another. I'll remove these new bolts next week some time, and fill the sleeves with epoxy.

In reply to John2:

Please remove the bolts - one of the lovely things about Mowing Word is the complete absence of anything other than yourself, the cliff, the sea and the sky -- that sense of isolation and of self sufficiency is very special and will be destroyed by bolting.

In reply to Owen W-G:

FFS why ? what pleasure can anyone get reduceing a route to their level ? its not as though they can claim the ascent without hopefully swift retribution. I would suggest removing their balls but they clearly don't have any.

In reply to John2: which route was that John? Very bizarre, it's not as though the mowing word rock isn't protectable. Is this new bolt on an existing route?

In reply to GDes:

No, the bolt i on the blank looking wall between the 2 established routes but not clippable from either

In reply to Owen W-G:

Directly up from heart of darkness belay

Taken from the Mowing Word section of the 1996 guide: -

"A pitch has been climbed on the smooth wall right of the upper cracks of 'New Morning' using a bolt runner, it was graded E5 6B and called 'If I ruled the World' (22.2.86). It began from the belay at the end of the traverse of 'Heart of Darkness' and moved up to the right side of the pinnacle...

I'm guessing that this could be the route. Doesn't explain why a hanger has re-appeared (I assume the original was removed?). Maybe a bit of a Bank Holiday wind up?

In reply to GDes: It was Dawn Chorus. The bolt looked suspiciously new for one placed in 1990 - I reckon that probably Mr Gibson was not the culprit. I'll report back on here once I've removed the new bolt (assuming no one else removes it first).

In reply to Owen W-G: Thanks Owen, there was a bolt exactly where you described it. I guess this is the line described as If I Ruled the World. The bolt was identical to the one I removed from Dawn Chorus - a Petzl hanger secured to a threaded sleeve by a short bolt with a 5mm Allen socket. Epoxy resin had been put into the Allen socket to attempt to prevent removal.

In reply to Jamie B:


Rather defeats the object non?