UKC

Does anyone have any info on swollen PIP joints? The PIP knuckle on my right middle finger is inflamed; I'm fairly sure it is due to too much time down the wall, probably crimping too much.

It doesn't hurt and the swelling goes down in the morning, but the joint does enlarge slightly through the day.

Is it best to a) have a break and see what happens or b)continue climbing on it being careful to openhand everything?

Any advice appreciated

In reply to david morse:
C) see a sports medical person / doctor

In reply to david morse:

As above - probably C

Just a though, PIP joint issue is likely from open-handing stuff rather than crimping though isn't it?

In reply to david morse:

I have the above, and despite seeing the doc I'm none the wiser. It's got to the point now that I can't climb more than once a week (and that is immensly gentle, boring sessions)

Due to return to the doctor with it, but not very optomistic. would be interested to see any bright ideas

In reply to david morse: Try the Dave McLoud ice treatment.

In reply to david morse: Hi dave I needed a series of cortisone in mine to get it back to use now fine 1 year on

In reply to david morse:

Same - right hand, middle finger.
Deep Tissue Massage, Ice Treatment, Ibuprofen. Get used to stiff hands.

http://www.eorthopod.com/content/pip-joint-injuries-finger

Cheers for the advice.

There seems to be a lot of contrasting information regarding this injury on the web

http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,50

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=20907.0

reason I suggested open handing http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2009/10/to-crimp-or-not-to-crimp....

As with most climbing injuries, there never seems to be a straightforward answer. Next time it swells up I'll be straight off to the physio and/or doctor. Will see what happens...

In reply to david morse: Take a break.

2 weeks no climbing to start with. Then when you come back openhand grip on everything for another 2-4 weeks. See how that goes.

1 thing painful and boring experience has taught me is that you can't be too careful with finger injuries. Fingers are simply not as resilient as other, larger, body parts.

In reply to david morse: Rest, Ibuprofen (to reduce swelling), ice and elevation (as often as practical.)

In reply to alexanderjwatts:

Good article...this may be my problem. Thanks

just found out that UKB has a vast backlog of PIP thread. these two links were in one of the threads. worth a read

http://www.orthogate.org/patient-education/hand/pip-joint-injuries-of-the-f...

http://www.camp4.com/rock/index.php?newsid=236