UKC

Why Does Slate have Trad Grades?

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 Paul Hy 13 Oct 2013
Most of my climbing has been on Grit, with a little bit of Sport on Limestone. I'm beginning to venture into mountain routes and other rock types. What I have just noticed is that slate (Llanberris, Austrailia Quarry) is Trad graded yet bolted, why?
 LakesWinter 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Paul Hy: Do one of the routes with a trad grade that has a couple of bolts on it and see what you think. Looning the Tube or Mental Lentils might help you answer that question and they're nice routes.
 The Norris 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Paul Hy:

Not sure if its the proper reason, but in my limited experience of slate routes, the bolts are so spaced apart that it gives you that trad style 'oh sh!t im gonna die' feeling.
 stevieb 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Paul Hy:
A lot of slate routes have no natural protection, so bolts were put in to protect the crux, or to prevent a ground fall from the top. Sport routes are normally bolted to prevent long falls. A 100ft route with 2 bolts at 40ft and 70ft is not most people's idea of a sport route.
lostcat 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Paul Hy: Do you have the latest guide or a slightly older one? In the latest one the true sports routes are given a sport/French grade. The routes which have a mix of bolts and trad gear are given a trad grade. These are usually the older routes and may only have 2 or 3 bolts per pitch and can often be up to 150 foot long so are obviously not clip ups and can be/are very scary!
 the power 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Paul Hy: sat in the house reading guide books by any chance?
 ksjs 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Paul Hy: The routes get trad grades typically because the gear (natural or man made) merits it i.e. despite the bolts the climbing is run out. There are a few routes e.g. Heading the Shot where there's scope for debate but it's usually clear why a route gets a sport or trad grade.
OP Paul Hy 13 Oct 2013
In reply to the power: Yeah!!!
OP Paul Hy 13 Oct 2013
In reply to stevieb: Ahhh. that explains it, thx.
 Offwidth 13 Oct 2013
In reply to Paul Hy: Slate style trad bolting is common in other places too, like the US, bolts don't always equal sports routes.
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