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impact drivers for routesetting

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suffolk climber 12 Nov 2013
afternoon all,
ive just seen a awesome deal on some drills which im hoping to use for routesetting at my local wall but they are only 10.8v can anyone give me advice on whether this will be powerful enough?
if not do people have any other good websites where i can find cheap impact drivers?
cheers sean.
 Martin W 12 Nov 2013
In reply to suffolk climber: Why do you need impact drivers for screwing hex bolts into threaded T-nuts? I'd have thought a torque-limiting drill would be what you want, since you should be aiming to reduce the risk of breaking the holds by over-tightening the bolts.
FiendishMcButton 12 Nov 2013
In reply to suffolk climber:

You want an impact driver that give you 150 nm's of torque That way you shouldn't have to nip them up with a hex key. Most 10.8's will give you around 110 nm's. 14.4's are a good power to weight ratio.
 stuartholmes 12 Nov 2013
In reply to suffolk climber: Impact drivers are miles beter but if you want the best of both worlds screwfix do a 'sparky set' this has a 14.4 v driver and drill 150 nm torque and there are 2 bateries in it so if you arnt using both you have a spare. Also its £150 iv had mine for over a year now and set around 3 times a week with it.
 Reach>Talent 12 Nov 2013
In reply to FiendishMcButton:
150 Newtonmeters, really? That is like hanging an average sized bloke off a 9" spanner. I don't think I've ever put that much force into a hold unless I'm a hell of a lot stronger than I think I am!
 Dave 88 12 Nov 2013
In reply to Reach>Talent:

Yeah that seems like a hell of a lot. I wouldn't want to be holding onto a drill that's turning out that kinda power!
 Reach>Talent 12 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave 88:
I've just looked up the torque specs for the drill I used to use and it doesn't even hit 50NM, yet I only ever had to apply a little bit of extra welly with a t-bar on larger holds to stop them spinning.
FiendishMcButton 12 Nov 2013
In reply to suffolk climber:

To Dave 88: I was talking about impact drivers not drills.

To mkean: If you have a big hold with a 14 stone person stood with their full weight on the end then the forces are like having 14 stone person on a 9 inch spanner

To the OP: If you're in doubt ask at the wall you're going to be setting at.
 Dave 88 12 Nov 2013
In reply to FiendishMcButton:

Ah right. So do holds get torqued up to 150nm as standard then?
FiendishMcButton 12 Nov 2013
In reply to Reach>Talent:
> (In reply to Dave 88)
> I've just looked up the torque specs for the drill I used to use and it doesn't even hit 50NM, yet I only ever had to apply a little bit of extra welly with a t-bar on larger holds to stop them spinning.

Whereas I never have to apply extra torque with a hex key which means I can set faster than when I used to use a 24v Drill and had to tighten every t-nut by hand.

Also impact drivers will undo most t-nuts without having to use a hex key again saving time

FiendishMcButton 12 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave 88:

Don't think I have ever seen anyone using a torque wrench on any climbing hold.
 Reach>Talent 12 Nov 2013
In reply to FiendishMcButton:
To mkean: If you have a big hold with a 14 stone person stood with their full weight on the end then the forces are like having 14 stone person on a 9 inch spanner

Less friction between the hold and the wall and a few other factors. The torque required to stop a hold spinning is a fair bit less than the theoretical torque applied by a hypothetical lardarse stood on the edge of the hold

I've also seen a fair few holds give up the ghost when done up to well under that sort of torque although I suspect they may have been decidedly crappy. I only broke out the T-bar on the bigger more positive holds and generally felt that if they needed that much torque then a screw up against the side of the hold was beneficial.


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