/ MH Ghost Whisperer Down Hoody & Alpine Winter

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Mr-Cowdrey on 29 Dec 2013
I'm trying a 'new' idea this winter which combines a super light down jacket underneath a super light synthetic jacket for belaying. The two jackets I have in mind are:

Arcteryx Nuclei Hoody (280g)
MH Ghost Whisperer Hooded Down Jacket (212g)

The idea behind this is that I have the warmth of down with the protection of synthetic on top. Plus the combination is lighter than a single, larger belay jacket and is more versatile.

But my question is, would the Ghost Whisperer be warm enough under the synthetic jacket, or should I consider a slightly heavier down jacket round the 300 - 400g mark

misterb - on 29 Dec 2013
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

I have a ghost whisperer and it is nice and warm especially if you put it under as shell , i havent used it under a synthetic jacket for warmth although i did use it to back up a rab neutrino endurance jacket in sweden at minus 18-20 and i was lovely and warm.
It will struggle on its own past minus 2 , you definitely feel the cold seeping through at this temperature if you are sat still.
I have climbed in it at 0 to minus 2 temps and it is really good.
Damo on 29 Dec 2013
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

I've tried something similar, though not really as a belay jacket on pitched technical routes, more just a cold weather mountaineering system.

You need to make sure the outer synth jacket won't compress the inner down jacket, obviously. This means buying the Nucleii in a bigger size than you might otherwise do. This renders it useless, or at least less than optimal, when used on its own. It's meant to be a light trim fitting garment and you're using it against that principle.

Using down as an inner or mid-layer is asking for it to become damp with your sweat, particularly under an outer synth layer. For this reason alone I would not use this system.

If you're climbing in snow or Scottish style damp mank then putting the down jacket over on top of it then the synth on top of it all is asking to have the mank melt on your shell and wet out the down mid-layer.

Two jackets is extra faff, and unnecessary weight, even if they are both very light.
Stuart the postie - on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

If your shell is wet you'll get down jacket wet from the inside, wearing another jacket on top would probably warm/speed up this process?

Super faff putting on 2 jackets, even more of a pain to carry, not to mention very expensive!!

I can see your logic, down is way warmer than any synthetic, smaller pack size too. As always, something is better than nothing!

martinph78 on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

As you'd have a shell jacket anyway, why not just use that to protect your down?

chris fox on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

wouldn't 3 hooded garments be an absolute pain, not to mention all the layers on your arms restricting them (as i am sure you'll also have a base layer and probably a mid layer micro fleece or similar ?

what about a down gillet, then synthetic. The gillet will keep your core warm and also not be too restrictive on your arms
Mr-Cowdrey on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:
I understand what you're all saying about down getting wet etc but what I mean is this:

- This system is a belay system, no movement/climbing etc.
- The 2 jackets provide warmth, and the synthetic protects the down.
- These 2 specific jackets weigh less than one purpose built belay jacket like the ME Fitzroy for example.
- It adds more versatility in the layering system for no added weight, as such (ie spare warm layer)

But I understand the bit about wetting the down from the inside, hadn't thought about that.

3 hoods could be an issue I suppose, so maybe a down jacket without the hood, or like chris fox has suggested, a down gillet.

But I like to have a multi functional jacket, and I like hoods

Cheers for the feed back though.
Post edited at 21:49
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:
I'd personally consider a slightly heavier jacket, but then again everyone's slightly different. What's good enough for me might not be the case for you etc...
smithaldo - on 16 Jan 2014
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

Just climb faster as a pair and you wont need to wear so much to belay.

In all seriousness though where are you thinking that you would need such a set up?
Mr-Cowdrey on 16 Jan 2014
In reply to smithaldo:

Just as a worse case scenario where temps drop I.e. a North face. But I have now dropped the idea after standing around on the Kitzsteinhorn in Austria at -20 and felt fine in my climbing* layers without a 'belay' jacket.

*I'm skiing but don't actually own any skiing specific jackets

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