In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
That conclusion came from comments on this and similar threads which may be summarised as "I'll look at the guide and if there aren't routes with stars I won't go". Then there's comments made by yourself and Chris Craggs about starring routes. I realise that you have guidebooks to sell but in my opinion that's clouding your judgment
"Our policy has always been to promote the power of the single star with the criteria as Chris has suggested. So 1 star routes may not be what they were cracked up to be 20 years ago, but the integrity of 2 and 3 star routes has been maintained."
So what's happened to the one star routes from twenty years ago - has their integrity been removed because of the "promotion" of good routes to one star status? You are cramming four levels in to three and it just won't work.
When I worked out the stars for Cwm Silyn and area, I listed all the routes then looked at those routes which were really poor and mentioned them as such in the text (no poo symbol you see). From the remainder I marked those which were "significantly" better than what might be judged as "good" or "decent", these became the one star routes. From that selection I then repeated the process to get the two and then three star routes.
To ByEeek:
To some extent the decision to remove all stars from the previous Tremadog guide was partly as a result of seeing regular queues of maybe four teams waiting to do The Plum and similar routes. Now The Plum is a good route and I can understand anyone wanting to do it or any honeypot route, but why spend a couple of hours waiting when you could be climbing something that might just surprise you? One of the reasons given for stars is that people need to use their limited leisure time to the full, so why not actually go climbing?
As an experiment I think it's fair to say it failed but I don't believe that increasing the number of routes with stars will increase traffic as it reduces the perceived discrimination between routes. Another reason for removing stars was that there were three star routes at Tremadog that plainly weren't getting traffic so the simple attribution of stars doesn't seem to work either.
Like I said in an earlier post, it shows the sheep mentality of many climbers.