/ help designing a training plan

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Slipknot_olly on 08 Feb 2014

in this wet weather im looking into starting my training again. Last year i was doing non stop traversing till my arms fell of as a warm up then doing harder problems for me or campus board stuff. I also had a 2 week alternating gym training plan strength full body based. I got strong doing this to the point where footwork wasnt really required on some problems & although i want to do something similar but more all encompassing this time.

can you help me come up with a new gym training plan to add the other one i have designed (can post if required) also what's your tips for the climbing wall? Having move since i last trained i find the wall i currently visit gets too busy to do alot i used to do :|

thanks in advance

Conquer the Crux on 09 Feb 2014 - d24-150-73-13.home.cgocable.net
In reply to Slipknot_olly:

Sounds like you've already got endurance and power covered in your training.

Focusing on finger strength training is pretty important but neglected by a lot of climbers. Maybe because it takes a lot of patience since it's something you have to stick with for months or even years and you have to work at it pretty slowly.

Also I personally do a lot of yoga. It's helped me with flexibility, balance and even strength. Plus, it really helps with mindset, breathing, and focus on the wall.
Slipknot_olly on 09 Feb 2014
In reply to Conquer the Crux:

thanks for the reply, yeah i think i am dodging finger work other than the campus board, maybe beast makers?

i did recently start yoga (5 weeks ago) i was very skeptical but have truly enjoyed it & feel great afterwards, its a good focus-er & great to release muscle tension.
DaveGoesClimbing - on 13 Feb 2014
In reply to Slipknot_olly:

Interesting that you have both recently started yoga. I've just started Tai Chi for exactly the same reason. I think there's a lot to be said for doing something away from the wall, particularly if it's helping your mental state.
RockSteady on 13 Feb 2014
In reply to Slipknot_olly:

(1) What are your training aims? What are you starting from - what are you aiming for? For starters unless you're a pretty advanced climber campussing seems a high-risk strategy.
(2) Is this all in the same session or different sessions? In the same session for optimal gains you shouldn't be getting loads of pump and then training strength/power. Ideally, different sessions for getting pumped and strength/power.
(3) Specificity. Lots of climbers say that unless you're already very good at climbing, the best training for climbing is more of it. So sack off the gym or yoga sessions for more climbing sessions.
(4) Variety. Different sessions can be: trying single really hard moves, trying hard boulder problems, training to get really pumped, training where you do a lot of climbing without getting pumped. All work slightly different things, all worth incorporating in any training plan.

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