UKC

Unpopular as it is, I often wish we had a few more sport climbing options in the North East. While it would be inappropriate to bolt the 'classic crags' there are a few like Causey Quarry which get much less traffic and could make a reasonable sport venue.

So I'm curious - who owns the decision to bolt an given crag and what is the process? I'm guessing it goes via BMC but wasn't sure.

In reply to tony mcmeekin:

Ah, you mean middle east . . . no idea.

In reply to tony mcmeekin:
I shall lodge my objection to the bolting of Causey Quarry now.

It is a popular venue, just look at the erosion at the top of the crag, or head down there on any warm, sunny evening. There's usually someone there.


Hownsgill would make a good sport venue though. Almost impossible to protect any of the climbs with trad gear, and not possible safely, and I've never met anyone else climbing there.

In reply to tony mcmeekin:
Legally, the landowner. Climbing wise, more complicated. Pretty much accepted nationally is the principle that you check with the FA (if possible) for retrobolting. That means no bolts at Causey. The main factor, though, is a policy based on local consensus, coordinated to varying degres via the BMC. In Northumberland, T&W and Durham this is no bolts on any of the currently trad crags and not on sandstone.

Causey would be a rubbish sport venue anyhow. Just top rope stuff there if you must. It needs the top stabilising and some kind of abseil posts to stop further erosion. The rock at the top is too weathered for bolted ab stations, I'd have thought.

I don't have an opinion on Hownsgill, I've not climbed there. But a friend did all the early routes (on lead) and wouldn't think he'd take kindly to his stuff being bolted.

You could take a trip to Houghton Graveyard if you want local bolted stuff.

You could always attend a BMC NE area meeting and ask, assuming you're a member. There were 7 of us last wek.

In reply to JDal:

Sorry, not disagreeing with you (necesarilly), but given that "It needs the top stabilising and some kind of abseil posts to stop further erosion." Why doesn't this make Cause Quarry a good sports venue since lower offs would (presumably - happy to be proved wrong) solve both these issues.

No particular axe to grind, just wondering (ex-pat Northumberlander, but only climbed at Causey Quarry once and thought it a bit grim on that occasion).

In reply to AndrewW:



How does an eroded top turn the place into a good sports venue? All sports bolting would achieve is to reduce the number of people wandering around the top to place top ropes. A rubbish reason for bolting routes.

I think the BMC should pay to have the topout issue sorted, It doesn't look too hard and it would make the place a really nice leading venue. This has been suggested before, but nothing happened.

In reply to JDal:


I'd like to shake his hand, he has way bigger balls than I do! It would be interesting to know what his thoughts actually are with regards to bolting the routes though. Did he lead them with pre-placed gear (pegs?).

There are already bolted lower-offs there, but having top-roped quite a few of the climbs I've never, ever fancied leading them! I've not met a local who has, or wants to, lead climb there either. I doubt the landowner would agree to any bolting anyway.

(I don't care for bolting at any venue though, as I am happy to top-rope what can't be protected)


I agree about Causey, it wouldn't make a very good sport venue, but could be made a much better trad venue if the top wa sorted out. I think a lot of the erosion is caused by groups using the place for abseiling. There are a lot of feet tramping up and down to the top of the Mangler for example. I'm not sure that abseil stakes would help this without other work being carried out to stabalise the top?

In reply to tony mcmeekin:

I will personally remove any bolts placed at Causey Crag. It's protectable via natural means. Its got some excellent routes such as The Mangler & Mauler Roof. Leave sport climbing for the girls south of Durham. Much better to stop being gay and just buy a trad rack.

In reply to Craig McMahon:


I'm not sure that your argument is enhanced by either the sexism or the homophobia... you sound like a prat.

In reply to andrewmcleod:

You also sound like a prat.

In reply to andrewmcleod:

On a more serious note I am definitely not sexist, I allow my wife out twice a week. Every Monday she's allowed out to do the food shopping and every Wednesday she gets out while I am attending my therapy group for my homophobia.

In reply to andrewmcleod:

Craig speaks in a quaint Stanley dialect.

In reply to Martin1978:


Re the bolting, I think he may have given up crqgging and may actually have a fairly relaxed attitude to it. He soloed most of the FA's on Jack Rock and was VERY bold. I've read some horror story stuff in the NMC mag about the topouts on Howns Gill, some of which he led, if not all. He was quite an expert on bad rock - like big developments on the appalling Hound Dene and the equally terrifying Harshaw Linn, none of which have been revisited AFAIK.

In reply to tony mcmeekin:
"I often wish we had a few more sport climbing options in the North East"

Why?

In reply to JDal:

Who did the FA's at Hownsgill? Wasn't Jeff Breen involved?

In reply to Craig McMahon:
It was Malcolm Lowerson. He took Jeff along,as well as other willing(ish) volunteers. I think I may have his guide somewhere.

Edit: Looking at Stew Wilsons guide, which credits all 72 routes to Malcolm, there is plenty of mention of "lowering chains" so maybe not everything was topped out.

In reply to JDal:
Yeah, there are quite a few lower-off bolts or chains. There's about 2-3m of shale at the top of the crag, so topping out isn't really an option. Even on a top rope we lower down at the shale.

There are some cracking routes there though, I've enjoyed quite a few; Corinthian is like nothing else, and Vixen, and Hardpad...

Thanks for all the responses.

Off to Ebay my bolts and drill....

Cheers.

In reply to JDal:



Fair enough.

In reply to tony mcmeekin:




Good idea, with the money buy yourself some rigging rope and some fat nylon slings and you'll be all set for some of Causey's best :p

In reply to Craig McMahon:
Wow, homophobic, sexist, narrow minded and hypocritical all in one post!

In reply to GDes:

somebody sensitive tonight

In reply to tony mcmeekin:
This is nonsense, I have led and or soloed every route on this crag (Causey Quarry) ,except one, many times and so have many other people. The vast majority of routes have adequate protection and often finish at trees which can be used as belays or runners to the next tree. So to suggest boltiing what is a well established trad crag is simply trolling. Mebs I should be embarrassed at responding to this stupidity... but what the heck.