UKC

USA Sport crags Mid To low grades.

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 monkeyboy3000 07 Mar 2014
Hey All, I am heading to the USA shortly for trip (East to west coast) & wanted some advice on some good sport climbing destinations for mid grade (6a to 6b) single pitch sport.

Going to be pretty flexible with itinerary and final route but travelling with non climbers too so cannot be too climbing focused at all times. Been looking and red river gorge seems like somewhere to head for. Any other smaller crags that people have been to that lend themselves to being not too epic would be good too.

Also just recovering from injury so not going to be slamming hard sport unless I make some good progress over he next months. So keeping it easy is also essential.

O

Removed User 07 Mar 2014
In reply to monkeyboy3000:

Its a bit like asking where to go sport climbing in Europe. You might need to be a little more specific as to the generl route across that you are taking.
OP monkeyboy3000 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Removed User:

No specific route planned other than starting in boston before the end of the month and going to head to New Orleans to meet some friends by the end of April then across to San Diego and "up"see how far we get by august when it's way to hot to do much.

It's all pretty loose. Looking at red river gorge and new river gorge to start.

Is it going to be too hot to climb in places like Joshua tree in June ? Anyone ?
 ckms 07 Mar 2014
In reply to monkeyboy3000:

Might be a bit out of your way, but if you are starting in Boston take a look at all the granite climbs north in Maine.
OP monkeyboy3000 07 Mar 2014
In reply to ckms:
Yep. I think heading north is a little out of the way but any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Has anyone much experience of Joshua tree and sport ?
In reply to monkeyboy3000:

For your grades forget Rifle. The following would all be good and all are places I've climbed:

Red River Gorge. World Class and unique sandstone. This is where you will find the biggest jugs you'll ever fall off. Humid in spring and hot in summer. Late Sept into October is probably the best time, though I went in May and it was ok. Super fashionable place to climb - as it's just like juggy climbing wall stuff - and consequently often rammed at weekends.

New River Gorge a few hours away - bit more vertical and old school - including some of the bolting, but I loved it. Much quieter than the Red.

Ten Sleep Canyon in Wyoming has the best sport climbing in the US in my view. Ten Sleep is a beautiful unspoilt place and has absolutely loads to do at your grades on pocketed limestone. Very well bolted too. Great free camping and a good informal scene. Crazy unique guidebook.

Wild Iris and Sinks Canyon are nearby (by US standards) at Lander - which is cool outdoor/cowboy town. Similar limestone but generally shorter routes. Wind River ranges nearby for amazing hiking and alpine rock.

Between those 3 Wyoming areas you are looking thousands of sport routes. Possibly a bit cold for the next month but good for spring/summer.

Then you have Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek Canyon near Boulder Colorado with another 2000 routes of all grade and steepness. Maybe not absolutely world class, but very varied from slab to overhang on granite and granitic rock. It's warming up now so you can pick sunny side routes and climb then change to shady side in the summer. (Same for Tensleep). Camping is tricky nearby.

South Platte is a huge dispersed area with cool summer temperatures and a rapidly developing sport climbing scene on granite. Plenty of camping and no crowds.

3 hours further South there is Shelf Road near Canon City. More extensive pocket limestone like Ten Sleep but not quite as good in my opinion. Some love it. Sunny and climbed all year round. Lovely location with camping on site.

Further south Enchanted Tower in New Mexico is small but beautiful. Welded tuff with pockets sized from fingers to sit in and lie down. Possible year round.

Tucson AZ has Mount Lemmon on the doorstep and the awesome Cochise Stronghold about 2 hours away. Mt Lemmon is good but is traditionally a winter destination - baking in summer. Crap guidebook. Cochise is amazing but the best routes are all multi-pitch.

There is some nice Sport around Moab at Wall Street, Sunshine Wall and Ice Cream Parlour. Spring/fall best. Trad cracks at Indian Creek are the real destination climbing. But you have to go to Moab and other parts of S. Utah as it is the most beautiful place in the world.

Owens River Gorge near Bishop CA. is brilliant too but but only been once myself.

J Tree - I wasn't much taken with the place and not really a sport destination. Smith Rock - never been.

Finally, I met some people from Arkansas who reckon there is great sport there at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.

I've scratched the surface, but you can't go wrong with that list. Mountain Project.com is great resource - and if you get the mobile app you can download areas and use it with no signal. This gets you to many areas and climbs then you can borrow a guide or buy one locally if you are going to be in the area for a few days. You'll find stuff on all these crags on MP.com.

PM me if you want any more info, though I may bang on about Ten Sleep..
OP monkeyboy3000 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC: amazing Jonathan. Thanks for putting the time into a response. Will see how the first part of the trip pans out and may very well hit you up for some more info depending on where I end up. Cheers

 HakanT 08 Mar 2014
In reply to monkeyboy3000:
Around Boston, Rumney in New Hampshire is the leading sport area by far. Plenty to do in your range.

If you are heading south on the East coast, New River Gorge in WV is a good bet as is Red River Gorge in KY.

As you head west, you have about two days of nothing before you get in to the mountain states.

One thing to consider is snow conditions depending on how soon you are leaving. Rumney still has snow. WY is an amazing place, but there is probably about 2 meters of snow at Wild Iris right now. Sinks Canyon will be accessible and south facing cliffs will be climbable.

If you are going in the next few weeks, you probably want to go to the south west. Queen Creek Canyon outside of Phoenix, AZ will keep you busy for weeks. Red Rocks outside of Las Vegas is an amazing place with a bunch of routes in the 5.10 range. There are a bunch of new sports areas in Southern Utah as well. If you haven't been to the desert, it is definitely worth the trip. Amazing area.

Your best resource may be www.rockclimbing.com where they list areas by state.

Have a great trip!
 Bob Bennett 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

Endorse Owens river gorge as a venue but there are several quality bolted crags in the Bishop area in the S. Nevada foothills that are very accessible by road and at an altitude that would be temperate when you plan to go.
Guidebook available in Bishop climbing shop
 Bob Bennett 08 Mar 2014
In reply to monkeyboy3000:

Joshua Tree was baking hot in early May when we went so I imagine it would be marginal to climb there in June.
 1poundSOCKS 08 Mar 2014
In reply to monkeyboy3000: I did the same trip in 2011. Red River Gorge is a must, and Miguel's is the place to be. The rest of my trip was mostly trad, but Red Rocks has plenty of sport and it's an amazing place to visit regardless. If you have half as much fun as I did, you are a very lucky person.

OP monkeyboy3000 08 Mar 2014
In reply to monkeyboy3000: cheers all, some really great tips. Keep em coming and if any ones out in the USA with a trad rack and keen for a partner PM me !

OP monkeyboy3000 08 Mar 2014
In reply to monkeyboy3000:

To put the last comment in context, love trad climbing but only carrying sport gear to keep it light for travelling. So if any ones in the area with a trad rack I would love to get on some US trad.....
 HakanT 08 Mar 2014
In reply to monkeyboy3000:
I just stumbled across this site that should be pretty useful as well:

http://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/AreaMap

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