UKC

What spanner for UK sport climbing?

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 PPP 18 Jul 2014
Hi there,

I am about to add a spanner into my kit while sport climbing outdoors. I have been to only one sport climbing venue so far, but I think it's worth taking a spanner for loose hangers/bolts. It's better having one rather than coming back home without finishing a route, that's for sure!

However, the more I search on Google, the more confused I get. I have found that people take 14mm, 17mm, 19mm spanners... DMM Nutbuster ( http://dmmclimbing.com/products/nutbuster/ )seems to use 17mm spanner. It seems like a good option as I will also need a nut key in future anyway. I'm just not sure whether this is a right size or not. Anyone has some experience with that?
 jimjimjim 18 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

Fookin Jesus....
 Blue Straggler 18 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

An adjustable one?
 gethin_allen 18 Jul 2014
In reply to jimjimjim:

> Fookin Jesus....

+1!
 Ffion Blethyn 18 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

An adjustable spanner, just in case.

http://www.dropshiponline.co.uk/images/SP048.jpg
 tehmarks 19 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

Get a small 6" adjustable. Should be plenty big enough for anything you ever encounter climbing, and small and light enough to clip/tuck out of the way and not be a pain in the ass.
 petenebo 19 Jul 2014
In reply to jimjimjim:

Love it.
 Oo 19 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

Metolious Torque has a few sizes.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/nut_tools.html
 Trangia 19 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

A compressor and rock drill is a useful tool to carry - more versitile than a spanner. I've heard there is a reduntant one on the Pillar of Paine, Patogonia up for grabs.
 Mike Stretford 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Blue Straggler:

> An adjustable one?

Metric or imperial?
 yeti 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Mike Stretford:

nice one, made me chuckle
 scott titt 19 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:
A 17mm-19mm double-ended ring spanner is the best option, nearly every bolt you will find in the UK is 10mm (which need a a 17mm for the nuts), some bolts are 12mm (19mm nuts). Any other spanner will be for maillons which have very odd sizes, for those a small adjustable is useful.
The advantage of a ring spanner is that they are really easy to clip to the harness, the disadvantage is that some cheap, discount store type spanners are too chunky to easily fit on the nut with some hangers, good quality spanners are slimmer.
I applaud your desire to take a spanner, they should be part of every sport climber's kit, in the same way that a nut key is part of a trad climber's.
OP PPP 19 Jul 2014
In reply to scott titt:

Thanks for your honest answer!
 imogen.fish 19 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

Be careful though, overtightening can damage the rock and increase the likelihood of the bolt shearing... the bolt can be structurally sound in a fall and still spin!
 Blue Straggler 19 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

> Thanks for your honest answer!

Thanks for not thanking me for MY honest answer :-P
OP PPP 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Blue Straggler:
I know what the internet is and I tend to ignore the jokes! I also know that I over complicate many things and I'm quite happy to be reminded.
Post edited at 11:46
OP PPP 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Blue Straggler:

I didn't like the idea of an adjustable spanner because of this:
> By using a ring-ended spanner for tightening (not an adjustable spanner) the correct tightness will be reached and there is no chance of damaging the nut.
Source: https://alpineclub.org.nz/climb/bolting


 gethin_allen 19 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

I can't see you accidentally destroying a ~17mm nut with a 6 inch adjustable spanner unless you are the hulk.
 Blue Straggler 19 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

> I didn't like the idea of an adjustable spanner

OK, take a 14mm, 17mm and 19mm ring-ended spanner.

This isn't rocket science!
 ewar woowar 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Blue Straggler:

> OK, take a 14mm, 17mm and 19mm ring-ended spanner.

> This isn't rocket science!

No, but it is socket science!

;~))
In reply to Blue Straggler:

> OK, take a 14mm, 17mm and 19mm ring-ended spanner.

There's an ethical issue here: with that much gear on your harness its trad.

 Blue Straggler 19 Jul 2014
In reply to ewar woowar:

> No, but it is socket science!

> ;~))

I line them up, you knock 'em in
 Blue Straggler 19 Jul 2014
In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

Only one at a time though, assuming all nuts on route are the same as the first one which you could check from the ground and just take the one (in the UK....less so at Buoux but the thread IS about UK sport )
 Morgan Woods 19 Jul 2014
In reply to ewar woowar:

> No, but it is socket science!

> ;~))

Never bothered carrying a spanner myself....I feel like a real tool.
 wilkie14c 19 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

Open spanners place too much pressure on only 2 flats so you should only consider a socket set for this task and an accompanying torque wrench to avoid over tightening. Don't buy no cheap stuff though, laser or black spur brands are rubbish, only get Snap-On or teng. Its your life after all so you need to pay for the best
 Ffion Blethyn 19 Jul 2014
In reply to wilkie14c:

Snap On carries a hefty price though...

Best of the more budgety brands (in my opinion etc.) is the Halfords Pro stuff.
 ewar woowar 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Blue Straggler:

> I line them up, you knock 'em in

I'm here all week!
 Blue Straggler 19 Jul 2014
In reply to ewar woowar:

> I'm here all week!

Try the scampi!
 wilkie14c 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

True enough, I have some of the Halfords pro ratcheting spanners and they are things of beauty and life time warranty

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