UKC

Can anyone describe the way to do this please? I just couldn't figure it out today. Got some good cams in the deep break and an ok Camalot 2 in the shallow break, then was stood in the deep break hands in the shallow one and couldn't see what to do! Managed to get one arm straight pushing down in the break with other pulling on the slopey dish just above, toe on a pebble, but was still a good 20cm away from the next holds. Wall seems to steep for a face-on mantle but facing either left or right just doesn't seem to provide enough reach! Any tips?

PS. 5'7

In reply to Mowglee:

Undercut or jam the pocket with your palm up. IIRC the hold you are reaching for is not that good, but good enough if you are in balance.

It is a really good route and that move is very tricky.

In reply to Mowglee:

I'm pretty sure I do it as lowers baronies said. There's a sloper just above the break for your right hand but it's easier If you ignore it. Make the long reach from the undercut jam.

In reply to Mowglee:

Yep, undercut the break. A great move!

In reply to Mowglee:

It's a great move. Ignore Deacon's anti-beta and try mine instead (it's probably worse): RH on the awful slopey dish, LH jamming (fist or cupped but not upside down), smear with the right foot and bring the left up into the break. From that position, udge up to the hold (can't think which hand I reach with).

Today, conditions were dreadful, really warm and humid: don't underestimate how much difference that will have made.

In reply to Mowglee:

I seem to remember undercut Jam with LH and L foot in same break then rock onto that to the distant mediocre holds above which took me aaaages to work out - Might be one of my favorite routes at Stanage!

In reply to Mowglee:

One of the photos is of me doing it. Left foot in break, the foot was cammed in giving some extra leverage. Then left hand in pocket and gradually rock up.

In reply to Mowglee:

I have always done the reach off a fat horizontal fist jam - though being 6' 3" may be a big help too!

Chris

In reply to Mowglee:

Thanks all. I was hoping not to blame it on a) being short and b) it being hot and sweaty, but perhaps I should try again when it's cold and I am taller.