UKC

Do others find that there is little comparison between the grades given for bouldering indoors, and the grades out there in the "real world"? I find pretty much everything way harder outdoors and wonder if there is a universal lack of realism in the gradings.......makes me feel better (indoors) but a heck of a come down when the reality check hits in!

In reply to tmawer:

Depends on the wall, some grade quite hard. And obviously on your strengths/ weaknesses. Wall bred climbers obv can't climb grit straight out of the box

In reply to tmawer:
i can climb harder grades outdoors (on grit and sandstone, not on rhyolite or limestone). It all comes down to experience.

just seen where you live. Soft wall and sandbag crags? Those problems on Boardman's boulder at carrock fell are absurdly graded, for example.

In reply to tmawer:

The moves are just easier to follow as you can se the holds indoors, when you climb on rock anything can be a hold so takes time to figer out, which is part of the fun, but can make things feel desperate a specially on grit

In reply to tmawer:

I don't boulder outdoors much - mostly do routes - but when I do I find what I can do outdoors and in is pretty consistent.

Whereas I climb a couple of grades harder on real routes than I do indoors, because I cope better with techy/bouldery/cruxy stuff than I do with being pumped senseless.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Which ones in particular? There's only one complete sandbag that I know of...

In reply to GPN:

i think the only one i could do was the v2 arête and that felt v3/4

In reply to GPN:

I think you may be in the photo in the guide, on the problem that prompted this thread! It is the left hand diamond route at Chapel Style which is V3. Without holding the arete with the left hand this is way too hard for me, yet the day before I had done a number of supposed V3/4 problems first go at a wall. We assumed the arete is out of bounds but this is not explicit in the guide.

In reply to tmawer:
Ha! I agree the description for that problem is a bit vague. I'd guess that you are allowed to use the Left arete ( it looks like I might be using it in the photo!) and that it's actually a bit of a soft touch (along with a few other things there). The only other thing I'd say is that a lot of outdoor problems are very knacky and feel a lot easier once you've sussed them out.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I think you must have been having a bad day!