UKC

Hi,

I am planning on going bouldering in Northumberland this following weekend and was looking for some advice on the best place to go bouldering for a group of climbers going outdoors for the first time. The group has climbed in doors for ~ 1-2 years and boulders at grades ranging up to f6a-f6b+.

We're looking for advice on the best place to go with good access and a good selection of routes graded from f4-f6a+ (We are travelling from Newcastle and looking for somewhere within a maximum of a 2 hour drive).

Thanks,
Rhys.

In reply to rhyswatt:

I've never climbed in that area so can't offer any specific directions. One bit of advice though, don't expect to be able to climb your indoor grades on outdoor routes. Chances are you'll find it a lot harder.

In reply to rhyswatt:

Shaftoe's not that far from Newcastle, the bouldering is spread out as are the easier grades but it's a lovely place, not that much of a walk in and the time you'll save driving further away could be spent working on some outdoor technique, not sure how many of you are in your group but can't see it being a problem.

If you go, start at Shaftoe Summit area (Ship's bait cabin), some good font 4's and 5's!

In reply to phleppy:

I'd second Shaftoe, just be warned that the rock there will feel really painful if this is your first time outdoors.

If you normally boulder in Newcastle, Climb Newcastle do some really good introduction to outdoor bouldering at Shaftoe.

I'd recommend going for the Ravine area as this has a good range of 4s and 5s, and leads nicely on to Font Boulder, and the Neb, then up into the Bait Cabin area.

Enjoy...


Oh, take wellies for the walk in as it can get a bit boggy after the rain.

In reply to rhyswatt:

and watch out for sheep droppings

In reply to ti_pin_man:

Thirded for Shaftoe NMC guide pretty much essential as it's a large area, some of the outlying areas may be a little dirty after the winter and see less traffic than the popular areas mentioned already.

Be prepared for some humbling as you'll mostly likely find the grades have a wider range of difficulty in them than you may be used to form indoor experience, just persevere and you will be rewarded - it doesn't make the problems any less enjoyable or less satisfying to climb

Lastly be careful only to park in the approved areas, NMC guide mentions a small area nearer the crag and the small lake/pond but when we used it three years ago we got back to find a note on the car saying don't use the area, weather for the weekend looks perfect too!

Go enjoy

In reply to rhyswatt:
Parking rules have changed since the guide was printed, the parking is clearly signed at the drystone wall on the right after the first gate/cattle grid. And please stick to the speed limit past the cottages.

Enjoy, and I'd second The Ravine area for starters.

In reply to rhyswatt:

Shaftoe would be a good bet, especially if you know the area, it can be a bit confusing on your first visit and agree that the rock is pretty rough on the skin!

Another option would be Bowden (Sheep Pen is a great place for newbies), Back Bowden (The boulders offer a good range of easier problems) and Raven's Crag (Great selection of short easy problems at the far end) These area are all close together so can be combined if time allows.

A few points about all these areas, most problems top out which will be a new skill for indoor climbers, get them on short easy things first until they understand how to top out! Also worth pointing out how important clean shoes are on our easily damaged sandstone. Make sure they keep their shoes clean and give them a wipe before stepping on.

Have fun.