UKC

Neither my partner nor I have done a whole lot in the Lakes so we are planning a few days there to do some VS-E1 classics. Most of the best seem to be on high mountain crags (Gimmer, Dow, Scafell etc) . We shall go to some of these, but for showery or lazy days which are the crags sub 45 minutes from the road with a selection of such routes (we know White Ghyll)?

In reply to Postmanpat:

Raven Crag Langdale
Buckstone How, Honnister
Castle Rock if its not fallen down
quite a few in Borrowdale

In reply to Postmanpat:

Lots to go at in Borrowdale - Black Crag, Shepherds, Sergeant Crag Slabs (and Bleak How which you walk past on the way).

Duddon and Eskdale are good for this sort of thing too - Wallowbarrow in the former and the little granite crags in the latter. Often quiet and in a beautiful setting. Good pubs too.

Gouther in Swindale might be worth a look?

There are some good routes on the slate at those grades too - Behind The Lines at Hodge and Night Of The Hot Pies at Cathedral are classics and well worth a go if you fancy something a bit different.

In reply to Pagan:


Goat Crag is also worth a trip

In reply to Postmanpat:

There are 2 Raven crags in langdale, both close to road, both have 3 star routes at that grade range

In reply to Postmanpat:

You could do worse for a quick hit than Quayfoot Buttress in Borrowdale. 5 minutes walk, if that, and several of the best routes at their grade (in my view) in the valley; Aberration, Mandrake, Irony and Crypt Direct .....there is also The Go between if you are going well.

In reply to tmawer:
I ve just been perusing the new selected guide and see that both irony and mandrake are given as single pitch routes ,which is how I ve always done them , as such they are two of the best HVS pitches anywhere . black crag is only 20 minutes from the car and has a big feel for something that is pretty much roadside .

In reply to Postmanpat:

Raven Crag Thirlmere has Communist Covert VS (for a "bonus route", abseil down big corner where climb finishes to a tree belay and climb it (corner, not the tree!) - last pitch of Anarchist - HS - lower pitches are scrappy. Also has Totalitarian - E1.

Heron Crag, Eskdale is within 45 minute walk from the road. Bellerophon, VS and Gormenghast E1.

Buckbarrow - Wasdale. Some good routes on Witch Buttress and Buckbarrow Needle area.

Black Crag, Long Scar - less than 45 mins walk from top of Wrynose Pass.

In reply to Postmanpat:

Buckstone Howe is 10 mins walk from top of Honister Pass. Great if you like slatey rock, hollow ringing flakes and an interesting descent ramp. Classic VS/HVS multipitch routes, Sinister Grooves, Cleopatra.

In reply to Postmanpat:


Wallowbarrow crag.

In reply to Postmanpat:

Thanks everybody, plenty to keep us going there!

In reply to Postmanpat:

I would echo Gouther Crag for The Fang, Sostenutu etc. but it is a longish drive from many more popular areas, but a real quiet Lakeland gem.

The usual suspects raised of course will fit the bill in Borrowdale, Langdale and Dudden.

In reply to Postmanpat:

We were in the lakes last week and mostly got out on the high crags despite iffy weather at either end of the week (finally ticked Eliminate A). However, had to do some lower level stuff as usual. Thoughts as follows...

Wallowbarrow in Duddon particularly good at VS - Agitation, Digitation, Malediction Direct (the latter was new to me, 2nd pitch excellent, like Grim Wall at Tremadog, steep but juggy and good pro)

Black Crag in Borrowdale, great routes in your grade band (particularly fond of troutdale pin superdirect at HVS), but can dry slowly (needs a day or two)

Black Crag on Pike O Blisco, gritesque - short routes on v rough Rock. I'm not sure why but I never love it, probably as its a bit bleak and open to the weather. High tho short walk in and dries fast.

The two Ravens in Langdale. The one behind the ODG and the other at Chapel Stile. Quite nice. The former has a set of really nice multi pitch routes severe to Vs with some classic harder stuff, the latter more restricted in reality but nice setting and good for a few hours.

Gouther in Swindale - excellent but oddly remote as said (shap turn off on M6 then convoluted drive). Great routes at most grades. Kennel Wall, the Fang, Scabby Horse, Sostenatu, Fang Direct etc.

Lots of other stuff in Borrowdale. Sergeants Crag Slabs is excellent with slabby mostly well protected routes but is a bit of a walk really (initially flat then a stiff pull up the hillside).

In reply to Postmanpat:

Reecastle is a great crag at the upper limit of your grade range but worth considering if you are climbing well.

10mins from the road but choose a windy day as the midge can be an issue.

Reecastle Crag

In reply to Postmanpat:

I reckon High Crag, Buttermere is within your time limit and it is/ was my favourite crag in the Lakes.

In reply to Postmanpat:

You may not know this but it can rain (a lot) in the Lakes - hard to believe I know! Don't despair, though, there is a paradise of endlessly sunny crags and outcrops just over the river called Arnside/Silverdale. Trowbarrow is the best known option but do not ignore the smaller stuff - just bear in mind, a V. Diff on Warton Upper can seem like a Lakes VS (or a kick in the privates) to the unwary. For the ultimate roadside attraction try 'Left Foot Eliminate' HVS here Crag Foot a kind of limestone 'Sloth'.

In reply to stewart murray:


I would say this is also at the upper end of the requested grade range... if not some way beyond!

In reply to Lankyman:


One of the reasons I haven't been there much!!

In reply to Postmanpat:

There is an old story (may be true) about a visitor talking to a farmer at the top of Borrowdale who asks 'Does it always rain up here?'. The farmer looks around a bit then says ' No, sometimes it snows'.

In reply to Lankyman:

It's even worse in Norway! A tourist arrives on the boat in Bergen and asks the little boy on the quayside how long it's been raining. "I don't know, I'm only 8" was the reply.