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Sheffield bouldering

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 Yorkieboy 18 Oct 2015
Just trying to find some good fun outdoor bouldering in and around sheffield. ..not major drives due to my lack of free time
Trying to find out about rivelin and somewhere called 'crag x' is that just a myth?
 deacondeacon 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

Where abouts in Sheffield are you?
The crag search here on ukc is really helpful too.
I wouldn't worry about crag x, there's probably 40 other crags closer than that.
 UKB Shark 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

There are a number of artificial venues/boulders dotted around which are also on the logbooks such as these:

Heeley Boulder
Cemetery Park Boulder
Broomgrove Road Wall
OP Yorkieboy 18 Oct 2015
In reply to deacondeacon:

In hillsborough, might have a scout around rivelin at the weekend
 UKB Shark 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

> In hillsborough, might have a scout around rivelin at the weekend

I've not bouldered at Rivelin but my impression is that the problems tend to require decent padding out and spotters. The only natural bouldering crag within the city limits is Bell Hagg which is pretty rubbish. Best bet is to get out to Burbage North and take it from there. Good luck.
 Bulls Crack 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

How constrained are you - since you areprobably in the place with the most plentiful nearby convenient bouldering in the UK!
OP Yorkieboy 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Its my knowledge and people to go with thats the main problem, dont know many if any of the good local areas, only been climbing a year ish and my group never went outside when i wasnt working
Any help on places to go would be sweet!
OP Yorkieboy 18 Oct 2015
In reply to shark:

Just looked up burbage north on maps and its near enough just up road! Any recommendations on routes for abit of weekend morning bouldering on my own?
 deacondeacon 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

Rivelin, wharncliffe, bell hagg, smallfield roof, stanage end, Wyming brook are all nearby to get you started.
Even if you decided to go further afield you can get to Burbage, Higgar Tor and Stanage Plantation in twenty minutes from Hillsborough.

I think your confusion with crag x is that there is a climbing shop in Sheffield called crag x which comes up on the crag database.
The bouldering crag x is near Rubicon (cressbrook) which is a 45 minute drive from Hillsborough.
 deacondeacon 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

Just get a bouldering pad and the vertebrate peak bouldering guide. You'll be fine. If you're going to the Burbage Valley there is tons of nice safe Boulder problems which are well documented in the guidebook.
OP Yorkieboy 18 Oct 2015
In reply to deacondeacon:

Cheers man! Looked up some awesome pictures of some routes, just need to get a pad and some underarmour then im set for some good weekends! 😀
 Jon Stewart 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

For quick hits, my favourites are Burbage (South better if you're new to bouldering outside, North is better once you're more confident on higher and harder problems) and Stanage Apparent North. Dead quick to get to. Try to get to the Burbage South boulders before they're swallowed up into the muddy winter bog-lake.

Rivelin has some boulder problems, limited in number but very high in quality. They're also high in height - not a good place to start out by yourself. Bell Hagg might have some OK-ish stuff to start out on, but it's a rubbish crag compared to Burbage.

As Deacon says, just get a pad and a guidebook and head out. You'll soon work out where's fun and enjoyable on your own, and where is not worth the bother.
 dr_botnik 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

Burbage north, burbage south boulders and stanage plantation are the 3 best areas for beginners. A good starting point would be the brick at burbage south boulders (worth checking the way down first!) or the north side of the business block at stanage plantation. The walls at burbage north feel a bit high ball, but as deacons said get the vertebrae guide and get out!
In reply to shark:

Heeley Boulder,
Hackey Sack kick about in the park,
Pint in The Sheaf View
.......sorted
.......
 Graeme Hammond 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

Crag X (Derbyshire) listed in Sheffield isn't actually at that location (see the crag info) and it is not really suitable for newer climbers anyway and its real located near is somewhere near Ravendale so quite a long way from Sheffield. Your best bet is to get out to stanage plantation or burbage south boulders these venues are Very good and will provide much more to go at when starting out than the very closest venues.
Ysgo 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

There's a ridiculous amount locally. There's a ton of information on this very website too:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/#main

Just type Sheffield and hit search.
 slacky 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

If you're limited by travelling then check out the artificial boulders around Sheffield.

I started a Wiki with the aim of documenting problems on the boulders. Its very much a work in progress still as I only really go to Heeley myself, but details of where the boulders are and some topos with holds numbered so you can add problems can be found at...

http://sheffieldboulder.uk/

For now I've locked down registration such that you have to email for an account. This is to reduce the number of 'bots' and spam/messing up of the Wiki.

I've written up some information on how to...

Add problems : http://sheffieldboulder.uk/doku.php?id=editing:new_problems
Document new boulders : http://sheffieldboulder.uk/doku.php?id=editing:new_boulders
Add Images : http://sheffieldboulder.uk/doku.php?id=editing:image_hosting

If you're looking to get out in the Peak District then invest in a guide. Currently your best option is Vertebrate Graphics Peak Bouldering guide (very well made and laid out).

In the mean time you can use http://peakbouldering.info to look up problems.
 Jon Stewart 29 Oct 2015
In reply to slacky:
> If you're limited by travelling then check out the artificial boulders around Sheffield.

(To the OP)

These are really good. By far the best for me is the Sheaf Boulder, with overhanging faces with lots of edges (none of them particularly good, lots really small) which are superb for training finger strength. The natural lines on this one are good problems (mainly Font 6s), but it's really easy to make up good eliminates. I reckon the Sheaf boulder is better than anything on Peak limestone.
Post edited at 09:54
 slacky 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Jon Stewart:

It would be great if you've time and inclination to add your regular problems on the Sheaf(/Cemetery) Boulder to the Wiki.


 stp 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Yorkieboy:

Personally I've never found the bouldering all that good around Sheffield, unless you climb at a pretty high standard (ie. english 6b/c). There are bits and bobs scattered around but its nothing like the route climbing in the Peak. Consequently all my bouldering is done indoors. The Climbing Works is excellent whether beginner or expert level, just loads to do, well set problems and with this weather you probably want to be inside.
 Jon Stewart 29 Oct 2015
In reply to stp:

> Personally I've never found the bouldering all that good around Sheffield

That's pretty weird. You don't think Stanage and Burbage have good bouldering in the font 5s and low 6s? Are you sure you know what you're looking for?
 Jon Stewart 29 Oct 2015
In reply to slacky:

Will do when I get the chance, thanks for the link.
 stp 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Jon Stewart:

There doesn't seem very to do at these places. The problems are mostly either too easy to be interesting or too hard. Things like Deliverance and Brad Pitt look great but way too hard for me. The Green Traverse is OK but not that great imo, just because its very much one move. The other thing I don't like that fact that many of the easier problems are slabby old school bouldering. I don't mind that style sometimes but there seems to be too much of that compared to more overhanging problems. So I'd find it hard to go there for day without getting bored pretty quickly, and usually end up soloing on the main edge instead. If I was a better climber I'm sure it would be different.
2
 Jon Stewart 29 Oct 2015
In reply to stp:


Try this circuit at Burbage North:

1. Everything on 20ft walls. Starts at Vdiff, ends at Lost In France (6a), with The Chant (brilliant HVS), The Curse and others along the way. A superb warm-up, 10mins once you've got'em wired.

2. Banana Finger. Classic 6a. Then do the Direct and variations if you can.

3. All Quiet. Superb highball 6a. The other 5a problems next to it are OK too.

4. Hanging Rib and Remergence. OK, we're at full-on UK 6b territory here, but once you know'em they're OK. Solo Mutiny while you're there.

5. Cleo's Edge (great 5+), Roof Goof and Safe Bet.

6. Nicotine Stain, Right Fin and Approach (hard! but apparently HVS...). Finish on the lovely Irrepressible Urge, and go home.

How anyone could ask for a better bouldering/highballing/soloing circuit at around Font 6a/HVS/E1 is beyond me. On a cool spring evening or autumn afternoon it's unbeatable.

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