UKC

That's one hell of a dyno, let alone in the middle of a climb. Congratulations are in order, i feel.

In reply to tim stubley:
yeah definately, Well Done.

Anybody have any other pics of the route so we can see just how far the dyno is?

In reply to tim stubley: suffice to say this is one big dyno. I was going to try this about a month ago, but after a serious look from the ground and above I thought it might be a little too long for me! Well Done is doing it, and a much better name too!

In reply to tim stubley:

As someone not in the 'know', could I request that on postings and reports like this, you say who actually did it rather than a "well done" and expect the rest of the country to know what your on about ?

In reply to GrahamD: Awfully sorry, but the item does appear in the new section of this site, and i wrongly guessed that everyone looks on the news before coming on here. the first ascentionist was Tom, the UKC news editor.

In reply to GrahamD:

As someone who can read you should have been able to see at the end of the news report in the 'News' section:

FA. Tom, UKC News Editor.

Then you would have been in the know, like the rest of the country.

In reply to Anonymous:

As someone whose computer can only access Rockfax and not UK climbing, I don't have that pleasure, so can someone tell me what this is? Is it that thing at Ramshaw, or something else?

Good name, Tom, whereever it is.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Here you go:

Nov 5:Black Rocks new route biggest grit dyno

"The oft-spied and sometimes tried direct finish to Pseudonym at Black Rocks is another new line to fall in the recent perfect autumn gritstone conditions. The Devil is in the Details climbs to the large break on Pseudonym and then leaps 7 feet diagonally to a pocket in the next vague break, before a final tricky slap a long way above good gear. The route took four days of effort and multiple slamming falls before the pocket was latched and the result – the biggest dyno on any grit route. Grade E7 7a. FA. Tom, UKC News Editor. "

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
'The oft-spied and sometimes tried direct finish to Pseudonym at Black Rocks is another new line to fall in the recent perfect autumn gritstone conditions. The Devil is in the Details climbs to the large break on Pseudonym and then leaps 7 feet diagonally to a pocket in the next vague break, before a final tricky slap a long way above good gear. The route took four days of effort and multiple slamming falls before the pocket was latched and the result – the biggest dyno on any grit route. Grade E7 7a. FA. Tom, UKC News Editor.' quote the news piece on UKC

In reply to squeeky:
Beat me to it!!

In reply to Anonymous:

Exactly. I read that, who did it ?

In reply to GrahamD: Tom, UKC News Editor did it. and a fine effort too regardless of this tangent of the thread.

In reply to Adders: And adders takes the tiller and steers the listing thread back on course!
does anyone know how high up/exposed the dyno is? i assume the gear beneath it must be quite good (from the picture of the lob supplied with the news story!)

In reply to tim stubley: However, the real question is whether the grade is correct.

Is it actually E7? Is is plausable that any of the current crop of top UK climbers would be able to onsight it? If the answer is a resounding no to the chances of an onsight and it's genuinely a 7a more (which I have no doubt it is), then it is arguable that it could be graded harder overall.

Just because it's safe, shouldn't detract from the proper application of our onsight grading system.

Comments?

In reply to Adders:

Sorry, I didn't recognise UKC News Editor as a surname, I assumed it was his job description. My mistake.

In reply to GrahamD: less of the sarcasm mate. doesnt matter does it, what matters is tom's done a great new route.

agreed?

In reply to GrahamD: Tom Briggs.
Dyno's are funny though, i don't know how well they fit into the whole onsight grading system, as there must be a certain amount of luck involved with such a long dyno mid route as to whether you catch it right or not.

In reply to GrahamD:

Now changed

In reply to tim stubley:

I agree, but I didn't want to give it XS 7a or whatever. I think the 'E' grade is a fair indicator of what it takes to do the route, which is, essentially one safe move.

In reply to Adders:

Agreed.

Sarcasm may not have been the best way to make the point that there are people interested in these things and that they really don't know from the name "Tom" who is being referred to.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Thanks

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Fair enough, i think the XS grade has had enough use recently. What grade is pseudonym, the climb that it starts from?

In reply to GrahamD: make friends make friends never never break friends etc

In reply to tim stubley:


"Are funny though" belonging to Mr or Mrs Dyno? No you've foxed me there i'm afraid.

In reply to tim stubley: psuedonym is E5 6b. The mantle is pretty fierce though. Which leads to gear and a big dyno!

In reply to tim stubley:

Pseudonym's E5, from memory.

In reply to daveP: I though dynos looked to much like the name of a greek island, and i though dyno was a shortened version of dynamic, in which case the punctuation was appropriate.

Nasty mantle followed by huge dyno, sounds like a fun route!

In reply to tim stubley:

if dyno was a shortened form of dynamic the you would see it writted as dyno' regardles if the pluralisation, which you don't. Also if you replaced the word dyno in a sentence with the word dynamic it makes no sense e.g. "i did a route the other day with a dynamic on it, then did another one with three dynamics on it". More like it supposed to mean "dynamic move".

In reply to daveP:

forgot to say

In reply to daveP: You forgot to mention on your profile that you were an english teacher

i noticed you have syrett's roof on your done list, in relevance to that other topic, that is near the top of my to do list. do the roof fine, get on to the slopey hand holds, then completely wimp out when it comes to trying to rock over at that height!

In reply to tim stubley:

if you wait till you feel good on it and its good conditions then it'll all come together. just remember to get your arse over your high foot and you'll be right. its one of the best routes/problems at the crag!

In reply to daveP: i agree, the moves just feel so good, and that ceeky e4 for finishing up the easy slab! also a big fan of morrel's wall, and have recently been trying dolphin belly slap, but with fairly limited success.

cheers for the confidence booster.

In reply to tim stubley: innit e3?? anyroad its proper bo.

In reply to daveP: any road up, at least 3 grades harder than i have ever lead, hmmm really must work on that lead grade.....

In reply to tim stubley: was up there this afternoon photographing various bits around demon rib area, thats one heck of a dyno. big congrats

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Nice one Tom, looks very impressive. Nevertheless if you are going to insist on falling off many times I really think you should wear a helmet young man!



Congrats again.

In reply to daveP: Whats a Dinky Dyno / Dinki Dino ??

You know the one from that song.

Is it a small dyno?

Stu

In reply to tim stubley: Fine effort tom!