UKC

Hello All,

Seeking your advice/experience that could help with recovery from an unfortunate and badly timed injury.

First things first. Its not me.

My girlfriend (and climbing partner) recently decided to add Netball to her weekly routine of climbing and yoga, and on Tuesday 10th November called me up at 8.30pm to say she was off to hospital, could I meet her...

The injury - a ruptured Achilles tendon (partial) on her right side. Someone stood on her foot as she twisted to run...

Bloody netball! Obviously this is bad news at any time, but especially bad timing for us, as we'd just told our employers that we planned to leave our jobs next April and take our van round Europe for 12 months on a climbing road-trip.

So,... two days after the injury, she had surgery (sewing the damaged tendon together), they put her leg in a cast, offered some crutches, and off we went back home, psyched to recover!

The info we got wasn't very detailed, a period of complete rest (4-6-8 weeks) with the cast non weight-bearing, then a period of rehabilitation (physio) to stretch out the tendon and start weight bearing and hopefully exercise, then beginning sport. Reading on the web anything from 4-6 months from injury to starting sports again.

We'd love to know more about

- Timelines: Its hard to find good information about timelines - I'm really interested in others experiences recovering from this type of injury or something similar where you are immobilised for a long'ish period then gradual physio back to climbing again (broken leg/ankle etc). Obviously if the timeline is less than 6 months we'll be especially excited to hear

- Keeping active/strong: Whilst she is in a cast, ideas on helping keep the body strong to minimise losses and also as a fun outlet when otherwise house-ridden

- Gradually building strength: Once she is out of the cast and begins weight bearing, ideas to help build climbing specific strength gradually

- Stories: any blogs you know of people (climbers) who've gone through similar recovery processes - to read positive stories for motivation and psyche

We will listen to the doctors, use a physio, search the web, probably buy Dave Macleod's Make or Break, but we're really interested in personal stories or advice from the ukc community.

Thanks in advance for reading and any advice you can offer us!

In reply to robbiebrookie:

A friend ruptured his achilles tendon in January. Although he's been going to the gym for some time now, he tells me he still finds it difficult/impossible to push off the ball of his foot. He hopes to get back to climbing (indoors only at first) in January.

Obviously all injuries are different, and he is in his 60s, which might make recovery a longer process. I've mentioned his misfortune to others including nurse and physio who see it as a nasty injury to deal with. Only time will tell for my pal. I hope your partner makes a full recovery in time

In reply to robbiebrookie:

In case anyone searches these forums in future for Achilles Tendon Rupture.

A few people got in touch directly. Here are a couple of useful timelines for recovery.

http://fitplan.it/2013/07/achilles-rupture-recovery-timeline/

http://www.davidgordonortho.co.uk/wp-content/themes/drgordon/resources/achi...

In reply to robbiebrookie:

It looks like both those protocols start jogging at 12 weeks which is the usual time point resistance training is started for these injuries. I'm not sure they would be started any earlier but being young and only a partial rupture you would expect progress to be less 'problematic' thereafter. Climbing is decent strengthening for the calf/TA but does not substitute for a dedicated strength program, see physio. You would want to avoid the landings from boulders or uncontrolled falling probably at least 4-6 moths (ask surgeon) , likewise epic trad outings and uncomfortable shoes would be ill advised for a while.

In reply to robbiebrookie:
I broke my talus in Dec '14 (about a year ago now!). I was non-weight bearing for 7 weeks and then partial for another 4 weeks or so. I gradually started climbing easier boulders indoors in about April, then progressed falling etc. I built up a lot of upper body strength (pull ups) and also core strength and stretching. I basically came back a grade better than I climbed before within a few weeks. (going from V3/4 to V4/V5 indoors, a grade or so below outdoors).

I then broke my other ankle because I'd come back too quickly and put too much on my 'good' ankle, but it was a pretty straightforward break so I was luckier than before.

I'm now very careful when I boulder and have had to work a lot on my ankles and confidence. Leading is fine.

Therefore my advice would be not to come back too quickly, you can injure yourself again (and trust me the second ankle injury was so much worse in terms of motivation)