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I was at the Cow and Calf on Sunday 9 November and was lucky enough to witness someone lead New Statesman (5th ascent I would say). Who was it????
In reply to m@:
Shortest person to do it as well, which makes it even more impressive
Plus, first person to wear a helmet(Well spotted Dave!)
Shortest person to do it as well, which makes it even more impressive
Plus, first person to wear a helmet(Well spotted Dave!)
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Top effort and very smooth. I'm sure the video that was taken will be posted somewhere in due course! Good to see probably "the" gritstone route getting the attention it deserves. Anyone for Loaded?
Top effort and very smooth. I'm sure the video that was taken will be posted somewhere in due course! Good to see probably "the" gritstone route getting the attention it deserves. Anyone for Loaded?
In reply to Wee Jim:
Pics here from DaveP's site
http://www.beardown.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/jordan.html
Pics here from DaveP's site
http://www.beardown.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/jordan.html
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
excellent - and I agree, surely one of *the* gritstone routes!
thanks for the link adam
excellent - and I agree, surely one of *the* gritstone routes!
thanks for the link adam
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
It's amazing what young people get up to on the rocks these days.
Mick
> (In reply to Wee Jim)
>
> Jordan Buys
>
> Jordan Buys
It's amazing what young people get up to on the rocks these days.
Mick
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: It looks easy, must have a go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stu
Jesting again of course.....
Stu
Jesting again of course.....
In reply to GrahamD:
as far as i know jordan hasn't commented on the grade.
hopefully a vid will appear on the site soon.
as far as i know jordan hasn't commented on the grade.
hopefully a vid will appear on the site soon.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
He looks so relaxed on it from a couple of photos, makes it look easy, which it definitely isn't. Good lead.
He looks so relaxed on it from a couple of photos, makes it look easy, which it definitely isn't. Good lead.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Go on, totally demoralise me - how hold is Jordan ? how long has he been climbing ?
Go on, totally demoralise me - how hold is Jordan ? how long has he been climbing ?
In reply to GrahamD: i think he's 21/22. been climbing years i think.
In reply to daveP:
just off at a tangent, but has anyone here done the route that travs into New Statesman from Cows Udders? I am guessing that it joins it at the jug that this lad has buried his left foot in, in one of the photos
???
Cheers, pie
just off at a tangent, but has anyone here done the route that travs into New Statesman from Cows Udders? I am guessing that it joins it at the jug that this lad has buried his left foot in, in one of the photos
???
Cheers, pie
In reply to Pie Boy:
Could he *get* any more chalk on those holds...?
Could he *get* any more chalk on those holds...?
In reply to Gavin Hodgson:
lol - yes I noticed this, but you should have seen the state of pedlar's slab after I'd finished with it on a rather damp'ish morning!
> Could he *get* any more chalk on those holds...?
lol - yes I noticed this, but you should have seen the state of pedlar's slab after I'd finished with it on a rather damp'ish morning!
In reply to Stu Tyrrell:
It can't be that easy for Jordan to climb? Surely big tits must realy throw you off balance?
It can't be that easy for Jordan to climb? Surely big tits must realy throw you off balance?
In reply to JR:
E8/9 @ 21 ! I was indeed a long way down the queue when they handed out climbing ability.
E8/9 @ 21 ! I was indeed a long way down the queue when they handed out climbing ability.
In reply to GrahamD:
Well considering James Pearson did The zone at curbar this week at E9. Think hes about 18/19. Doesn't sound like a bad effort to me...
Well considering James Pearson did The zone at curbar this week at E9. Think hes about 18/19. Doesn't sound like a bad effort to me...
In reply to JR:
17 actually
17 actually
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Like all top quality wads from Burnley, best town in Britain for true rockers
Al
> (In reply to daveP)
>
> Knowing Jordan, he is more psyched for quality of climbing
>
> Knowing Jordan, he is more psyched for quality of climbing
Like all top quality wads from Burnley, best town in Britain for true rockers
Al
In reply to GrahamD:
It's a good achievement but this route was climbed 16 years ago by an 18 year old - Dunne.
When are these young whippersnappers going to put up some routes that are truely amazing?
It's a good achievement but this route was climbed 16 years ago by an 18 year old - Dunne.
When are these young whippersnappers going to put up some routes that are truely amazing?
In reply to Anonymous:
A fine put down
Good work boys, I'll get back to the VD's
> (In reply to GrahamD)
>
> It's a good achievement but this route was climbed 16 years ago by an 18 year old - Dunne.
>
> When are these young whippersnappers going to put up some routes that are truely amazing?
>
> It's a good achievement but this route was climbed 16 years ago by an 18 year old - Dunne.
>
> When are these young whippersnappers going to put up some routes that are truely amazing?
A fine put down
Good work boys, I'll get back to the VD's
In reply to Pie Boy:
The route up the middle hasnt been done yet, and it doesnt traverse in from anywhere. Its straight up the middle
> (In reply to daveP)
>
> just off at a tangent, but has anyone here done the route that travs into New Statesman from Cows Udders? I am guessing that it joins it at the jug that this lad has buried his left foot in, in one of the photos
>
>
> just off at a tangent, but has anyone here done the route that travs into New Statesman from Cows Udders? I am guessing that it joins it at the jug that this lad has buried his left foot in, in one of the photos
>
The route up the middle hasnt been done yet, and it doesnt traverse in from anywhere. Its straight up the middle
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
I think he's talking about the E5 high level traverse?!?!?
I think he's talking about the E5 high level traverse?!?!?
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Just looked at the news page, apparently the cameraman repeated it as well. Two ascents in a day. Trade route?;-0
Just looked at the news page, apparently the cameraman repeated it as well. Two ascents in a day. Trade route?;-0
In reply to sutty:
bit confised about the news report. i emailed Tom briggs about it on monday with the link to my site but nothing appears, then this report appears by some other guy, with a link to my site! if the guy says we was there on camera duties then why had he given a link to my site featuring Kim's screenshot photos?
bit confised about the news report. i emailed Tom briggs about it on monday with the link to my site but nothing appears, then this report appears by some other guy, with a link to my site! if the guy says we was there on camera duties then why had he given a link to my site featuring Kim's screenshot photos?
In reply to sutty:
just want to reirterate that the photos and video on my site here:
http://www.beardown.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/jordan.html
are nothing to do with this malcom kent whos apparnelty down the news report.
just want to reirterate that the photos and video on my site here:
http://www.beardown.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/jordan.html
are nothing to do with this malcom kent whos apparnelty down the news report.
In reply to daveP:
I was at Ilkley on sunday filming Jordan do New Statesman. Malcolm is taking the p a bit i feel, after Jordan did the route, we watched a couple of lads to Guillotine, then went home in the dark. No-one else got on the route. I'm pretty sure the 6th ascent is yet to happen!
There's some photos of the ascent at our site above and hopefully the vid soon, i'm just having a few compression issues (i.e. 1.4 gig -> 10 meg!)
cheers,
kim.
I was at Ilkley on sunday filming Jordan do New Statesman. Malcolm is taking the p a bit i feel, after Jordan did the route, we watched a couple of lads to Guillotine, then went home in the dark. No-one else got on the route. I'm pretty sure the 6th ascent is yet to happen!
There's some photos of the ascent at our site above and hopefully the vid soon, i'm just having a few compression issues (i.e. 1.4 gig -> 10 meg!)
cheers,
kim.
In reply to Kim Leyland:
Oh dear, some porkys coming out eh? If he did it someone will have pictures, if I was on it I am dam sure there was a record of it.
Oh dear, some porkys coming out eh? If he did it someone will have pictures, if I was on it I am dam sure there was a record of it.
In reply to :
Good effrort by Jordan.
This is a general observation but would the the route take sky hooks?
Looking at the photo's it would appear that the pockets could/may take 'em.
I've never seen the route in the flesh and am generally interested.
J
Good effrort by Jordan.
This is a general observation but would the the route take sky hooks?
Looking at the photo's it would appear that the pockets could/may take 'em.
I've never seen the route in the flesh and am generally interested.
J
In reply to Ropeboy:
i guess it might, the pockets are incut in parts i think, maybe the lip's too wide. i reckon someone would've tried by now if it made it any more doable, probably more hassle than it's worth...
i'm sure those two rps are bomber anyway!
Kim.
i guess it might, the pockets are incut in parts i think, maybe the lip's too wide. i reckon someone would've tried by now if it made it any more doable, probably more hassle than it's worth...
i'm sure those two rps are bomber anyway!
Kim.
In reply to daveP:
News item changed unless Malcolm wants to dispute it. Apologies if I got the wrong end of the stick, but when someone writes "I clean top-roped N Statesman, returning shortly for ascent 6!, I assume they mean they led it.
News item changed unless Malcolm wants to dispute it. Apologies if I got the wrong end of the stick, but when someone writes "I clean top-roped N Statesman, returning shortly for ascent 6!, I assume they mean they led it.
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: maybe they meant 'I clean TR'ed it, AND WILL BE returning shortly to lead it'...?
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
probably means he intends to return soon to lead it. good luck if thats the case. cheers.
probably means he intends to return soon to lead it. good luck if thats the case. cheers.
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Hi, I'm Jordan's wife! Just to clear up a few points... Jordan is 22 and has now done loads of E7's and a few E8's, mostly very quickly so he reckons the New Statesman is the best he's done yet and is top end E8. Malcolm didn't climb it, he only tried it on top rope the other day and said it was nails so there was a bit of a mix-up there. He took a few pictures but at the moment, check out beardown productions for stills from Kim's video.
Hi, I'm Jordan's wife! Just to clear up a few points... Jordan is 22 and has now done loads of E7's and a few E8's, mostly very quickly so he reckons the New Statesman is the best he's done yet and is top end E8. Malcolm didn't climb it, he only tried it on top rope the other day and said it was nails so there was a bit of a mix-up there. He took a few pictures but at the moment, check out beardown productions for stills from Kim's video.
In reply to Kim Leyland:
Yer sorry everyone. I meant the 6th ascent is 'waiting' to be done. Kind of a joke and knid of not. I've tope roped the line in the past and then again on Monday. So get wired in there and beat me to it. Many many appologies to all inc Tom. I'm not actually any good at climbing... but watch out for Jordan. I reckon E9 next judging by the way he cruised NS.
Yer sorry everyone. I meant the 6th ascent is 'waiting' to be done. Kind of a joke and knid of not. I've tope roped the line in the past and then again on Monday. So get wired in there and beat me to it. Many many appologies to all inc Tom. I'm not actually any good at climbing... but watch out for Jordan. I reckon E9 next judging by the way he cruised NS.
Nice one Jordan, you seemed really psyched when i spotted you on that arete at Brimham last year. So, whats next?
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Sorry Tom - my fault, what I meant to say is that I'm in the process of doing the next ascent, having clean climbed it on tope rope. Will inform when its done. I didn't mean to cast a grey mist over the best line in Britain! However I would like to stress the point that Jordan is the man to keep an eye out for. Punters like me are just trying to keep up. Cheers.
PS. When I'm next in Cham, how do I go about finding crag x?
Sorry Tom - my fault, what I meant to say is that I'm in the process of doing the next ascent, having clean climbed it on tope rope. Will inform when its done. I didn't mean to cast a grey mist over the best line in Britain! However I would like to stress the point that Jordan is the man to keep an eye out for. Punters like me are just trying to keep up. Cheers.
PS. When I'm next in Cham, how do I go about finding crag x?
In reply to Malcolm:
Seems like that famous telegram that missed out a comma and gave an entirely different meaning to the message.
So bloody famous I have forgotten it now
Crossed wires eh?
Seems like that famous telegram that missed out a comma and gave an entirely different meaning to the message.
So bloody famous I have forgotten it now
Crossed wires eh?
In reply to simon.a:
In reply to Malcolm:
Turn left in Cluses and head up the hill (I don't actually know where it is).
The routes were all bolted up a week after we'd done them. That's France for ya.
> Oops. title now changed.
In reply to Malcolm:
> (In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor)
> PS. When I'm next in Cham, how do I go about finding crag x?
> PS. When I'm next in Cham, how do I go about finding crag x?
Turn left in Cluses and head up the hill (I don't actually know where it is).
The routes were all bolted up a week after we'd done them. That's France for ya.
In reply to ally smith: Hi Ally, thanks for the spot that day. I hope you have been back to do it yourself since. I still feel psyched thankfully. Whats next will be my secret!
In reply to Jordan Buys:
Alright mate... Was that TH at Brimham? Whats it like?
Alright mate... Was that TH at Brimham? Whats it like?
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Hi matey, It wasnt TH it was WIS(walk in silience) and that is ace!!!!!!! I still have the only photos from petes original ascent of the statesman to develope. Are yours from the sunday??
In reply to Adam Lincoln: I ended up soloing the route as it felt more like an adventure. i could nt get the pegs to fit well.
In reply to Jordan Buys:
yo, there an unedited 6meg .wmv of the new statesman ascent from kim's camera on the site now. feel free to download and view it locally cos that might save my bandwidth!
yo, there an unedited 6meg .wmv of the new statesman ascent from kim's camera on the site now. feel free to download and view it locally cos that might save my bandwidth!
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
You have to right click on it and Save Target on your machine. Then use it from there
You have to right click on it and Save Target on your machine. Then use it from there
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Fine for me too. I'm using Windows Media Player 9....
In reply to ali k:
of course it works ali, you're just being a god damn retard a usual, you big weak punter!
no seriosuly it does work, probably just some local problem with your uni computers etc. either save target as or you shoudl just be able to view it as a stream.
of course it works ali, you're just being a god damn retard a usual, you big weak punter!
no seriosuly it does work, probably just some local problem with your uni computers etc. either save target as or you shoudl just be able to view it as a stream.
In reply to daveP:
i'm no good with computers.
it won't let me save on the computer (doin the save target thing) and when i just click on it normally it comes up as a loada nonsense...what's a stream anyway?
i'm no good with computers.
it won't let me save on the computer (doin the save target thing) and when i just click on it normally it comes up as a loada nonsense...what's a stream anyway?
In reply to daveP: For those of us with fast work computers and time to waste, any chance of you putting a less compressed version on the site - so I can see the minute holds in all their glory!
In reply to daveP:
doesn't work for me either win2k, streaming or save as. What codec is it using?
doesn't work for me either win2k, streaming or save as. What codec is it using?
In reply to Ben Darvill:
Unfortunately it's only a free site so we've only got 30 meg of space...of which we've used about 20 already!
I guess we could try and persuade UKC or someone to host a better quality version..?
it looks excellent in full screen dv quality on my computer by the way
Kim.
> (In reply to daveP) For those of us with fast work computers and time to waste, any chance of you putting a less compressed version on the site - so I can see the minute holds in all their glory!
Unfortunately it's only a free site so we've only got 30 meg of space...of which we've used about 20 already!
I guess we could try and persuade UKC or someone to host a better quality version..?
it looks excellent in full screen dv quality on my computer by the way
Kim.
In reply to ali k:
Can you normally see videos, if not you may need to enable them somehow. A tick is missing in a box but I can't remember where, and being on a modem it will take ages to load.
Can you normally see videos, if not you may need to enable them somehow. A tick is missing in a box but I can't remember where, and being on a modem it will take ages to load.
In reply to Big Al:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
> [...]
>
> Like all top quality wads from Burnley, best town in Britain for true rockers
>
> Surely that should read best town for true alcoholics who rarely get to the crag before two .
> [...]
>
> Like all top quality wads from Burnley, best town in Britain for true rockers
>
> Surely that should read best town for true alcoholics who rarely get to the crag before two .
In reply to Matt:
it's using whatever codec is standard on windows movie maker - can't find what it is tho. i'm on winxp don't know if that might have something to do with it?
kim.
> (In reply to daveP)
> doesn't work for me either win2k, streaming or save as. What codec is it using?
> doesn't work for me either win2k, streaming or save as. What codec is it using?
it's using whatever codec is standard on windows movie maker - can't find what it is tho. i'm on winxp don't know if that might have something to do with it?
kim.
In reply to whoever's movie it is:
I can host a full quality movie file for download if you like for a couple of weeks (not streamed tho), drop me an email?
f.
I can host a full quality movie file for download if you like for a couple of weeks (not streamed tho), drop me an email?
f.
In reply to flapper: 200mb?
In reply to ali k:
this weekend coming or the one after? bo.
> (In reply to Kim)
>
> i give up
> i'm down in the peak next wknd anyway so i'll see it then
>
> i give up
> i'm down in the peak next wknd anyway so i'll see it then
this weekend coming or the one after? bo.
In reply to daveP: sure, but who'd want to download it? Kim's sorted out a slightly slimmer version, that's being uploaded ATM.
f
f
In reply to daveP:
Good video despite the toned down quality. Pretty clear and the zooming out moments were well timed.
A couple of things I noticed - how smoothly he did the moves (and how much time he spent resting and psyching up in between), and also how much he needed to chalk up (and it seems it was quite cold with the LH warming?). The latter being quite reassuring that not everyone cruises up dry-handed.
Anyway, when's the flash coming??
Good video despite the toned down quality. Pretty clear and the zooming out moments were well timed.
A couple of things I noticed - how smoothly he did the moves (and how much time he spent resting and psyching up in between), and also how much he needed to chalk up (and it seems it was quite cold with the LH warming?). The latter being quite reassuring that not everyone cruises up dry-handed.
Anyway, when's the flash coming??
In reply to Fiend: theres a link on the site now toa 35 meg version. it plays well fullscreen, is edited (other shots etc) and has titles and music. Bo selecta.
In reply to daveP:
It appears to be just one part of a multi-part file? When I download it, it says the file is 3.56 meg, which it is. And plays up to 32 seconds before giving a 'file corrupt or incomplete' error.
> theres a link on the site now toa 35 meg version
It appears to be just one part of a multi-part file? When I download it, it says the file is 3.56 meg, which it is. And plays up to 32 seconds before giving a 'file corrupt or incomplete' error.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
dammit, don't know what's going on there boys. Has anyone actually managed to download it - thought it was working OK last night? It definately uploaded as one file.
I'm not at home at the mo so can't get into the server to check. I'll email flapper, see if he knows owt! I've mangaged to get another version in quicktime format so might be able to upload that instead tonight...
Kim.
dammit, don't know what's going on there boys. Has anyone actually managed to download it - thought it was working OK last night? It definately uploaded as one file.
I'm not at home at the mo so can't get into the server to check. I'll email flapper, see if he knows owt! I've mangaged to get another version in quicktime format so might be able to upload that instead tonight...
Kim.
In reply to Jordan Buys:
Jordan, Josh here. I'm the friend of Keiran's who was spotting you when you fell onto that pointed rock! I'm glad the injured buttock hasn't kept you away from there! I'm very impressed with your new climb mate! Top stuff! Keep it up!
Josh
Jordan, Josh here. I'm the friend of Keiran's who was spotting you when you fell onto that pointed rock! I'm glad the injured buttock hasn't kept you away from there! I'm very impressed with your new climb mate! Top stuff! Keep it up!
Josh
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