UKC

I'm arriving for a stag do in Edinburgh way in advance of anyone else, I'll be getting to the city by train at about 10:00am or so and I'll have time to kill. I was planning on heading up to Alien2, but that doesn't open till 15:30.

Alien1 is open but I've been informed their bouldering room is 'small'. Can anyone comment how small? Would it occupy me for a couple of hours? They apparently don't have any autobelays and I wasn't planning on bringing a harness anyway.

The third option is something I hadn't even considered; outside. Not knowing the area I figured without a car I wouldn't be able to get to a crag but it seems Salisbury Crags may have me covered? Does anyone know how easy it is to get to, and how I'm going to far dragging a little wheelie suitcase around the area?

Thanks for any help.

In reply to Kieran_John:


Alien 1 bouldering room is small. Sorry I'm not a boulderer, not used it for years and never have measured it, but think of say floor space in region of at a wild guess 5m x 6m? Could be totally wrong though as with the overhanging walls it always looked small.

Its mainly used for warm ups, teaching children, etc, and not serious bouldering - that's AR 2 as you are aware. Unlikely you would wish to be in there for two hours. Maybe 30 mins max!

You can however "boulder" on the routes in the main climbing area at low level (you would need to check to what height) if it's not busy which is unlikely on a Friday during the day. Alternatively, you could go to AR1 to have a warm up and head to AR2 which is nearby for when it opens. Think it is still the case that the one entry fee covers both in the same day. Again you would want to check that with management.

Re the S crags, they are easy enough to get to with a longish walk, but you certainly would not want or take a wheeled suitcase there. Never climbed there so comment any more on that.

If your serious about a boulder, why not head to Ratho? It would take a bit of time by bus/walk (or you could take a taxi), but it has so much more to offer for bouldering.

Hope that helps - have a bump anyway, and someone who knows better can answer.

In reply to Climbing Pieman:

I'm a bit rusty as to A1 bouldering, but seem to recall that it's a bit more challenging than being only for 'children'! Back in the day (10 years ago) I would have thought it would it keep a V4 boulder happy for a couple of hours. May have changed of course. Or maybe I've always been shit (quite possible).

In reply to Kieran_John:

There's not many good bouldering options arriving mid-morning and no car. If you are associated with a university and can get in under a reciprocal arrangement maybe Edin Uni's wall in the Pleasance. There is bouldering in one area of Salsibury crags but its not extensive/great and technically you are supposed to fill in a form with the park rangers before climbing.

The weather is nice and if it was me I'd go for a walk along the grassy path on top of Salisbury crags and then up Arthur's seat instead, there's a few scrambly 'off piste' routes up to the top if you need a climbing fix.

In reply to Kieran_John:
AR2 is your best bet, expect to pay just under a tenner to use the place, be warned; it's chalk dusty as hell and the routes are graded awfully. They use their own grading system that isn't related to anything useful as far as I am aware.
There are some nice routes however, the dalmatians in "The cave" are good fun. It's a feature wall too btw.

There is a key to their grades by the door, but it still confuses me and I've been climbing there for a month or so...

Ratho is okay, but V cold and not particularly accessible.
Agassiz rock is the other outdoor venue in Edin, but not very close to Waverley!

(If you are here for a stag do, the best Chippie is to be found on leith walk near John Lewis - Cafe Piccante.(They also do deep friend mars bars) The best pint is Brewdog by grassmarket, just off the royal mile. (£4.40 a pint, try the Punk IPA and the Spicy monster pizza) The best live music is whistlebinkies, also off the royal mile and The Rose street pub crawl is NOT to be underestimated. Jekyll and Hyde also do great deals on cocktail pitchers and relatively cheap beer)

In reply to Hertz32:

Cheers for the advice all, A2 isn't an option, after 3pm I need to be sociable, climbing is before then!

I'm going to see what the weather is like on arrival, if grim then I'll walk up to A1 and boulder/traverse, if it's nice I'll head to Salisbury Crag and Arthur's Seat.

The station has a left luggage facility so I'll dump my wheelie bag there.

And thanks for the suggestions for places to go, I'll be sure to pass them on to the best man!

In reply to Kieran_John:

Taking a small wheely suitcase to Salisbury Crags would't be any trouble at all - less than five minutes 'off pavement' walk. And if you go to the pleasance gym (close to salisbury crags) you'll be able to get a student to sign you in. £7 I think. Small but good bouldering room - much, much better than A1.