UKC

Feels like this might be a stupid question, but... roughly how many "moves" per meter do does an average sport climb have?

I guess I'd define a move as a discrete hand hold, and guess about 2 moves per meter; does that sound reasonable?

In reply to humptydumpty:

Depends

In reply to humptydumpty:

mmmm, 42?

In reply to humptydumpty:

There's about 30 hand moves on the route I'm trying, and it's 12m long. Does that help?

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Yeah it does, thanks. Does it feel average, or is it very handy-movey?

In reply to humptydumpty:

Maybe average for a 12m route at Malham, perhaps slightly less 'handy' than some, mainly long reaches after the first couple of bolts. Although when I learn one route, I tend to forget the last one.

In reply to humptydumpty:

I have a ten metre, 20 move project. It's on small holds without any really big moves and it feels quite tiki-taka.

In reply to humptydumpty:

So far we've got 50 moves over 22m, giving 2.27 mpm.

I don't know much about statistics, but I guess I would need an odd number for a proper average. But this is a great start, thanks.

In reply to humptydumpty:

Hi Humpty, I am curious - what requires you to need an average figure estimated by different people?
There are so many variables that would confound any credibility to the figure you end up getting.

In reply to alx:

Hi alx, I'm trying to get a rough feel for how long a training wall problem would be as a route. Do you have any data?

In reply to humptydumpty:

It depends on what your trying to mimic and then trying to translate that to your training wall. You can be as specific or as general as you want, but expect the results to change with specificity.

A good example would be a particular problem I am after. I know the holds, the angle of wall, the number of moves, how long I hold each hold for, how locked my arm is on each hold per move. I am able to recreate the above, not in whole but the bits that matter, I get my heart rate really high so I am boxed, then execute the moves.

I have no doubt that this puts me in a great place to climb this boulder but it will not translate very well.

BW
Alx

In reply to Steve nevers:

42 Moves (6b+)

In reply to humptydumpty:

When I had WAAAY too much time to kill and was working a project at the local wall, I did this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/70132285@N07/19316982808/in/photolist-vqYzZJ

Is about 23-25m long maybe and was 50/1 moves long, depending on exactly how you finished and clipped it. An outdoor project I had a few years ago (and of a very similar length) has 54 moves.

In reply to humptydumpty:

I've certainly been on routes where without changing holds a "move" is required to prepare for the next move e.g. going from a normal to egyptian foot placement on the same hold

In reply to humptydumpty:


I'm no expert, but I suspect you're probably better going by time rather than moves/metres. You can go really fast on a circuit that you've got completely wired, probably even more than on a redpoint attempt on a route.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Great use of tiki-taka. Q2.

In reply to humptydumpty:


Hmmm... I suspect it doesn't convert like that. Longer moves are, all other things equal, harder.

In reply to humptydumpty:

No idea and I'm sure it varies massively on different rock types. But it's a really interesting question, an interesting metric to try to measure.

In reply to stp:

And the style of the climb I suppose. Offwidthing springs to mind, where a fairly strenuous move might only udge you an inch or so further up some hideous crack.

In reply to deepsoup:

Holy moly! I hadn't thought about offwidthing. Not even sure whether the usual counting of hand movements could even work where it might seem to be one continuous squirm.