UKC

Yet another finger injury thread, sorry.

After even gentle climbing my middle two fingers of both hands stiffen up and are painful along the top of the joints. This takes about a week to settle down. Funnily enough I've cut my climbing down to about once per week to give my hands a rest, but it's not getting much better. Currently climbing around 6a,b indoors on vertical stuff, so nothing particularly hard. Steeper juggier stuff I drop a grade or several due to an adverse strength to weight ratio. I always crimp open handed and try not to over grip holds unless really scared.

Any idea what I've done to myself and how to fix it?

In reply to markAut:


Do the joints swell at all?

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Not noticeably, but the joint itself feels stiff so it could be inflammation inside I suppose. There seems to be a small loss of movement range, I cannot curl my fingers as far as I thought I could before it started hurting, if that makes sense.

In reply to markAut:

OK I wouldn't want to give you advice directly because I'm not competent with all types of finger injury but have a look at this...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6193

Scroll down to the picture of the swollen knuckles and have a read. Seems like it might describe some of your symptoms?

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Thanks for the link.
I've always had nobbly knuckles, so there is little apparent swelling. The pain seems mostly on the top of the joint, maybe in the joint or just on the top of the next finger bone. Twisting my finger seems a bit more uncomfortable than on the undamaged ones.

Does this sound like pulley damage?

What about bursitis collateral ligament or extensor ligament damage?

Obviously I'm not looking for full on medical advice here, but it would be great to know if it's a diy fix, gp or Physio job. Also being sufficiently armed to talk to a gp is always better than just saying "hurty finger"!

In reply to markAut:

Not a problem.

The link says to approach a sports physio if you get knuckle pain for more than 14 days. Tbh I don't know enough to give you any more detailed advice than that but have a bump.

In reply to markAut:


No. You would expect swelling at the underside of the fingers rather than the knuckles, generally more towards the base, or even see the flexor tendon pop out if you have a full tear of the annular ligament.


possibly, but would not tell you much about the cause even if confirmed, just that the inflammation in your joints also affects the bursae (fluid filled recesses).


On several fingers? Is pushing sideways against your outstretched finger tips painful?


How would you get an overload injury on your extensors by climbing (these are for stretching your fingers!)

When I suffer from overload induced inflammation I generally complement resting with a short dose of OTC NSAIDs, e.g. Ibuprofen or Diclofenac. The rationale is that the inflammation is not only a response to damage incurred, but also by itself damages the tissue further and should be suppressed.
I would not do this if I regularly took NSAIDs for other reasons, but fortunately I do not suffer from headaches, so I believe my stomach and/or kidneys can cope with a few pills every few months...

In reply to markAut:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=642420

I've started using ice water and heat after hard sessions for similar reasons and it has done wonders for my fingers. Can't promise it'll help you but it does promote healing in the hands so might be worth a try.

I put them in iced water for 2-3 mins, dry off then use a heated pad thing for a few minutes. After the cold treatment the skin is usually slightly pink. After the warm treatment the joints feel slightly swollen with, I assume, the fresh blood being pumped through.

I would read up about this sort of treatment with regards times and how cold to go. I think there's an article on this site that mentions it.

Good luck.

In reply to markAut:
Most of what you mention sounds alot like the symptoms I have and had for years which the GP diagnosed as OA (including the pain on sideways pressure, loss of movement, knobby joints). Of course mine never really settles even with a couple of weeks off climbing, so I just get on with it!

Sounds like you need to see a specialist to diagnose so you know how to manage it?

In reply to GargoyleFeet:
I've been known to use ice treatment for my fingers - up to 15 mins when they are really sore - followed by warmth. I use massage, stretching and painkillers also. Certainly has helped me.

In reply to cb294:

Thanks for replying. Really I'm just clutching at straws, or would be if I could use my hands.



Uncomfortable, but not painful, so may just be referred i guess.


I don't know! most discomfort seems to be around that attachment point so it made sense in a strange way.


I try to avoid painkillers and antiinflammatories as I forgot to look after the damaged appendage, and make things worse, but think I'll dig out the medicine box.

In reply to Climbing Pieman and GargoyleFeet:

Tried ice/ cold last night and my hands were a little better, so will continue with it and see what happens, along with drugging myself appropriately. I'll give it a couple of weeks, maybe with just a little easy stuff to keep me sane and see how it settles down.

I refuse to accept, even though the signs are abundantly clear, that old age has anything to do with it.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and advice.

In reply to markAut:


Why not tape if you are doing easier stuff to give the fingers support? If it's "just" an injury this could possibly help in the recovery as long as you don't overdo the climbing.

I've used "H" taping on the fingers on occasions when I think it is something else in addition to the OA. May not be generally accepted as doing any good, but it does help me and I don't think it's only in the mind !! Need to redo the tape every 20-30 mins with the stretchier tapes. Personally, I've found Dream tape as the least stretchy of those I've tried over the years.

In reply to Climbing Pieman:

Last session I taped my middle fingers together so they supported each other and I think it helped. Just trying to not become reliant on a crutch if you see what I mean.
Will deffo use tape for a while though just to stop things getting worse. I have dream tape, but I didn' register that the stuff stretches and needs replacing! By the time I've needed it most, at the end of a session it's the least effective. Feel a bit stupid now. Ah well, live and learn.

In reply to markAut:


Guess you can rule out damage to the collateral ligaments as well, then. Hurts like hell if injured and fingers are pushed sideways (classic Judo injury if your fingers get caught in your opponent´s jacket....)

CB