UKC

Looking for recommended easy/moderate routes and days out in the Ailefroide, Ecrin, Briancon areas please. Everything from easy first alpine peaks, 'Rockaneering' routes, single & multi-pitch routes and venues. Trad, Sport & Via Feratta. Also thinking about an ascent of Mt Viso. Advice on that or other recommendations in the Queyras also very welcome.

Nothing harder than UK HVS, Fr 6a or alpine AD. Does not matter how easy it is as long as the quality is there.

Thanks.

In reply to Ian Hey:

Have a look at 'La Snoopy (6b)' - Really nice route. It has one 6b pitch which can be aided if necessary (although I got up it, so can't be too bad )

We also did 'Remonte Pente Directe' on the same trip which was a lovely romp after doing Snoopy.

In reply to charley:

Thanks Charley. Can you tell me where those routes are and what guidebook they are in? Thanks.

In reply to Ian Hey:

There are loads of multi-pitches at your grade around the Ailefroide campsite. La Palavar-les-flots is the easiest and consequently most popular but there are lots of others. Similarly there is lots of go at around Briancon if it's no too hot Nid D'aigle on Le Ponteil is a great route. The Roche Faurio was my girlfriends first alpine peak there. It's a snow plod up to the top and then a PD rock ridge to the summit, although it was horribly busy when we did it. Also we were pretty late in the season, the glacier walk to the hut was probably the hardest part! We used plasir south for the rock climbing and an old alpine club guide for the peak, I'm sure there are more useful guides though particularly if you want one just for the Ecrins. The via ferrata in the durance gorge is enjoyable enough as via ferratas go.

In reply to Ian Hey:

Sorry, although I can remember roughly were they are, can't remember the names of the sectors and I haven't got a copy of the guide to check for you. They are in the Ailfroide guide which can be picked up in one of the village shops.

If you're staying nearby then the Rainbow Warrior/Beekeepers area might be worth a visit to get used to the climbing style. All single pitch, majority are low grade starting at 3+. Particularly enjoyed 'Greenpeace' if I remember correctly.

In reply to Ian Hey:

Alpine:
Traverse of Pelvoux, PD+
Roche Faurio, F+
Dome de Neige, F +, 4000m summit, but probably busy
Barre des Ecrins, voie normale PD+, or the Traverse via the Barre Noire couloir.
Rock routes:
Loads in the valley, just get the local guidebook in the village
Via Feratta:
Good one at the bottom of the hill on the way into Ailefroide, also good one at Gorge de la Durance

In reply to Ian Hey:

Montagne des Agneaux was my first alpine peak.

In reply to Ian Hey:

Thanks for all the replies folks. Keep them coming. Anyone done either the standard route or East ridge of Mt Viso or other rock climbing/scrambling in the Queyras?

In reply to Ian Hey:

The Aiguille Dibona has some amazing routes on it.

In reply to Ian Hey:

Got some work out there mate? Can recommend the following:

Ailefroide - everything in the valley from bouldering to 400m walls, plus alpine stuff higher up like, gneiss and granite:

Le Diable Par La Queue, Contreforts de Coste-Counier 5+, 500m
Super Pilou, Aig. Sialouze 5+, 400m
Arete Sud, Pt Louise AD 500m
Voie du Vieux Piton, Pt Cineastes 6a, 500m

Some good stuff off the main valley on limestone - Voie de Scuola Gervasutti, Tete Colombe and Eperon Renaud on the Tenailles.

On the Dibona, Visite Obligitaire is superb at 6a

In reply to Ian Hey:

Hi Ian

I live between Ailefroide and Briancon about 20 min from both, there is so much to go at here, over 3300 sports route in the sports climbing guide, over four rock types, a big wall multi pitch guide book as well, plus the alpine stuff, and some very good via ferrata's that and the weather is the main reason I moved here, as for recommended routes I'd need a bit more time to list them all works busy here as the Sumer season is kicking off, if you like drop me an email rob@dream-trails.com and I can see if I can help with ideas?

Cheers Rob

In reply to ecrinscollective:

Thanks Rob. Just sending you a quick email now. cheers.