In reply to flopsicle:
You really need to experiment and see what suits you. What works for one individual does not work for another. Taking hexes and cams for example, many on here are suggesting one per krab but I find that takes up too much space. One thing that does appear to be universal however is racking large at the back to small at the front but even then this can vary from route to route. The following works for me:
Rocks 1 to 6 on a BD oval krab clipped on the right front gear loop.
Rocks 7, 8, 9 and 10 on an oval krab behind that.
This is repeated on the left but with DMM Wallnuts and offsets in similar sizes, again on the front loop.
Micro wires, typically 8 or 9 racked either front or back according to route.
Smaller cams on the right, racked 2 per oval krab on front loop.
Some smaller cams on the left, racked 2 per karabiner on front loop.
Rear loops are reserved for QD's and extendable alpine slings and larger cams/Torque nuts according to route.
If I need to also carry large Cams or the larger Torque nuts I use a bandolier and do use one per krab in this instance. Torque nuts have extendable slings and are more manageable for racking.
Apart from the odd route where there is a disproportionate amount of larger gear all of this racks on 4 gear loops adequately but apart from the ovals, 6 in total, I use DMM Phantom krabs which save on weight and space.
There is no RIGHT method and I may vary the one described above on some routes. There are not many large Hexes for example on a slab route and not many micros on a grit hand jamming crack. I carry 3 screwgates maximum except at places where it may be necessary to "rig" ropes beforehand at the top but on the route itself 3 is enough.
Al
Post edited at 13:20