UKC

In one of our longest-running ever tests, Rob Greenwood compares three different models from Scarpa's Instinct range: the all-rounder, the boulderer and the edgy one.

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In reply to UKC Gear:
Every pair of instinct VS I have seen seem to suffer from the same problem, peeling away rubber on the top of the toe box. This is from, in my case, a small amount of toe hooking. I wonder why rob does not mention this as if you visit any climbing wall in the country and you will see the same. Maybe rob does not climb indoors the lucky chap. On the upside they are snug fitting and an excellent shoe for precision and the rubber is ok too

In reply to oldcheese:

I'm on my 4th or 5th pair of instinct vs used for everything I do ie lime sport, lime boulder, sandstone and grit boulder, and indoor boulder. The toe hook rubber has peeled eventually on all of them, but only on the same timescale as the toe sole rubber has worn through anyway, which is no worse than other shoes. Evwn when it does start peeling it doesn't really cause a problem in my experience. So not a reason not to buy them really.

In reply to oldcheese:

I'm on my third pair which is close to wearing through after extensive use for quite a few months. Toe rubber is wearing off as well, it did as well on the first pair. Done a bit of toe hooking in Parisella's but nothing major.

Other than that, it's pretty much the best shoe I've owned and will probably resole these for another round. Fantastic precision. A bit stiff rubber for some of the smears but mindblowingly good for overhanging ground.

In reply to oldcheese:

I'd hazard a guess that the reason he doesn't mention it is because, looking at this three pairs, it hasn't happened on any them.

That said, I'm not saying it doesn't happen, because I know exactly what you mean!

In reply to UKC Gear:

I wonder why there's a difference in price between the VS-options and the lace?

I've been patiently waiting for the XS grip versions after (as a lightweight) finding XS-edge 'unpredictable' (especially in cold temperatures). However, at nigh on £125 I struggle to make that leap of faith buying a new pair of shoes!

In reply to Paul B:

Just resole the VS with grip rubber. Good as new- no, better come to think of it.

In reply to UKC Gear:

Just started using the Instinct lace after throwing a very used pair of Anasazi Verde's away.

They've taken a bit of time to wear in. Initially thought I was going to have to cut my losses and get a different pair as they were agonising for the first couple of weeks. They seemed to provide little grip on the toe and the stiff sole hindered feedback, especially given the worn pair I'd just thrown.

Thery're starting to evolve and grip more, either that or my feet have changed shape but I do think it's improving my climbing. Still not sure whether I should have gone 1/2 a size larger but hope they'll continue to fit.

Just for reference, street shoe 10.5-11, Verde 10.5, Instinct 10.