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What type of footwear is best suited for oudoor climbing?

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 CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
Hello folks!

I'm doing a Research project in college and I have based it on Climbing. I want to find out what type of climbing boot is best for outdoor climbing and I'm trying to gather information on different types of footwear to compare them. I want to find out more information on prices, quality, comfort and durability. A shoe that does it all basically, so I can narrow it down and conclude the project.

Any comments related will help me wonders! Thanks.
 jimtitt 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

For climbing steep ice a B1 boot, for hard rock then a rock boot and for everything in between there is a boot on the market for each different need. The nearest to an all round boot is a technical approach/guide boot which is relatively poor at everything.
 ModerateMatt 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

I wish you luck but there are no be all and end all climbing shoe. Depending on you chosen activity, style of climbing, physiology, personal preference and skill level the desirable characteristics change. However there are shoe's suited to all of factors I mentioned and many more.

Matt
1
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to jimtitt:

Hi Jimtitt,

Thank you for your reply.

What type of Rock boot do you suggest is the best in terms of durability/cost/comfort?
 Lord_ash2000 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:
Well what sort of climbing do you mean, I think you're being far to braod in your crietira.

If it's Technical rock climbing (ie the sort of "rock climbing" people who aren't climbers think of as rock climbing then its, not surprisingly its rock boots.

Here is a tiny selection of whats available. http://www.needlesports.com/2695/rock-climbing.aspx

Some are generally better than others in terms of quality and rubber etc but the main factor is getting a shoe that suits what you're going to use them for and fits your particular feet well.

If you're going to do hard steep bouldering then a down turned shoe with a good heal is what you'll want. If you're on gritstone slabs you're going to want something flatter and softer, if you're on a slate wall you're going to want something stiff for edging. If you're on an all day trad multi-pitch then you want something made for comfort.

But if you just want a name of a good all round rock boot then in my view, this http://www.needlesports.com/1011/products/5-10-anasazi-lace-up-pink.aspx is hard to beat. I've used them on everything from steep bouldering to techy slabs and they have preformed very well for me. They also fit well (assuming you've narrow'ish feet)
Post edited at 10:40
 danm 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

The one that fits you best. Rock boots perform best when fitted snugly with no dead spaces between boot and foot.
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to ModerateMatt:

Thank you for the feedback Matt.
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to Lord_ash2000:
Hi Lord_ash2000,

Thank you for your reply, I have Narrowed my project down to Rock climbing and I'm specifically aiming for an ideal rock boot that suits all or most types of rock. I also want to try and highlight factors like price and durability when comparing rock boots.
 tehmarks 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

As others have alluded to, there is no one 'best' type of shoe for rock climbing, and no one best type of footwear for climbing in general (which might cover not only rock, but technical mixed routes and ice). For example a stiff shoe will be great for edging on small positive holds, but will be poorer than a softer shoe for smearing on 'nothing'. Conversely a soft shoe won't feel anywhere near as secure as a stiffer shoe while edging on tiny holds.

It entirely depends on what you're doing.
 JDC 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

I'm not being rude (honestly!), but do you actually climb yourself? Your question sounds like you don't. Either that, or your simply trying to be too broad in your project. There are dozens of rock shoe manufacturers out there who spend a lot of money on development to answer the sort of questions you raise. But they develop products to meet particular needs and types of climbing.

Maybe try and narrow down the question you're asking and you might have more success. But be warned, ask 6 climbers what their favourite shoe is for a particular rock type (or even a particular route in some cases!) and you'll get 6 different answers!
 Anoetic 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:
As everybodies foot shape is different, and all rock shoes are different shapes there can be no one answer. However why people choose to wear the shoe they do is a different question all together.
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to tehmarks:

Ahhhh I see. I'll try and narrow the type of rock climbing down. I tried to do rock climbing as a whole but I now know with everyone's plus your feedback that it wont work hahaha. Thanks for your reply.
 tehmarks 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

What, out of curiosity, is the aim of your project?
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to James Coulson:

I'm simply being too broad on my project. I do climb myself, Outdoor and indoor. It actually helps when I get various answers as I can use them for comparison and slot them in categories. Thanks for your reply and feedback James.
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to Anoetic:

Thanks for your reply Anoetic. I am open to answers on why they wear the shoe, as every bit of information helps to contribute to my research.
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to tehmarks:
Basically to find a rock boot that is affordable, durable and comfortable though I recognise these factors don't normally pair up and that you'll normally have one of and not all of them in a boot. The reason I was so broad in my question is due to the fact that I want to compare these boots and suit them to the type of rock climbing they're suited for. I've tried to finalise my topic question, but with the feedback I have received I can see I may have to narrow or change the topic.
Post edited at 11:16
 Lord_ash2000 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

> Basically to find a rock boot that is affordable, durable and comfortable...

Although desirable traits none of those 3 qualities are what I focus on when I buy climbing shoes. I choose a shoe based on whether or not it'll preform on the rock I typically climb.

Obviously I don't want a shoe that's going to cost twice as much as its rivals, wear out in a week and cripple my feet, they are factors to a point, but ultimately I'd be more likely sacrifice some comfort, cost and durability to get a shoe that's going to work when I need it too, performance is what I seek.

In reply to CosmicOrder:

> Hello folks!

> I'm doing a Research project in college and I have based it on Climbing. I want to find out what type of climbing boot is best for outdoor climbing and I'm trying to gather information on different types of footwear to compare them. I want to find out more information on prices, quality, comfort and durability. A shoe that does it all basically, so I can narrow it down and conclude the project.

> Any comments related will help me wonders! Thanks.

It's the Sportiva Testarossa, 2 sizes down from street shoe size, re-soled in 5.10 XS Edge rubber (original rubber is XS grip).
No finer climbing shoe.
 bouldery bits 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

Different foot wear for different tasks. My current rock quiver is as follows:

5.10 moccs: warm up boot. Comfy all day shoe. Popping to the beach for easy bouldering shoe. Smeary Grit shoe. Simple, great fit.

5.10 Quantum (old style): harder trad. Good fit, very precise. Good heel.

5.10 Galileo: easier trad. Great edging and all day shoe. Super comfy. Good stiffness.

LA sportiva solution: for the steep stuff. Stiff. Surprisingly good on slabs.

5.10 Dragon: for stuff I can't do. So much power through the toe. Come out on special occasions.

Inov8 x-talons: approach shoe easy scrambling, running and accidentally soloing up to diff.... My go to and do it all footwear choice 8 months of the year.

Scarpa SL's: walking and scrambling. Literally tough as old boots. Brilliant protection.

So basically if you can invent for me a shoe that does all that in one I'll buy a pair

 springfall2008 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

Isn't that a bit like saying "which car is best for road driving"?
 DaveHK 02 Oct 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

> Isn't that a bit like saying "which car is best for road driving"?

No, because most people don't have multiple cars for different types of driving.
 wbo 02 Oct 2016
In reply to DaveHK: Which makes it a rather fine analogy.

 springfall2008 02 Oct 2016
In reply to DaveHK:

> No, because most people don't have multiple cars for different types of driving.

I think they do, we have a family car (estate) and a small hatchback. Clearly climbing shoes are much cheaper and so people keep different ones but the point remains.

 DaveHK 02 Oct 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

> I think they do, we have a family car (estate) and a small hatchback. Clearly climbing shoes are much cheaper and so people keep different ones but the point remains.

Do you share your rock shoes with other family members too?
 springfall2008 02 Oct 2016
In reply to DaveHK:

I guess you don't really understand analogies..... *grin*
 Rick Graham 02 Oct 2016
In reply to jimtitt:

> For climbing steep ice a B1 boot, for hard rock then a rock boot and for everything in between there is a boot on the market for each different need. The nearest to an all round boot is a technical approach/guide boot which is relatively poor at everything.

You might find a B3 boot with a C3 crampon better for steep ice, Jim
 DaveHK 02 Oct 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

Like a modern Don Quixote I'm waging a one man war against bad analogies.
Post edited at 19:40
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

I worded my topic wrong haha. I realised what I asked was a bit too broad.
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to bouldery bits:

Brilliant, thank you Bouldery bits for the feedback . I'll see what I can do about that super-duper-I-can-do-anything rock boot hahaha .
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Thank you for your feedback Paul!
 Bulls Crack 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

Go to an outdoor shop?
 jim jones 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

> Hi Lord_ash2000,

> Thank you for your reply, I have Narrowed my project down to Rock climbing and I'm specifically aiming for an ideal rock boot that suits all or most types of rock. I also want to try and highlight factors like price and durability when comparing rock boots.

I would suggest the "rock boot that suits all or most types of rock" is no longer manufactured as nowadays shoes change yearly. Boreal Fire's or Ballet types come close to an all round shoe i.e. good for cracks, walls and slabs but have nowadays been superseded by type specific footwear.
 jimtitt 02 Oct 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:

> You might find a B3 boot with a C3 crampon better for steep ice, Jim

My idea of steep ice is taking the dog for a walk! HavenĀ“ t put crampons on since 1970
 liamando 02 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

I like to imagine that this is in fact a psychology experiment to test peoples responses to the questions, though I like to imagine this about most posts on UKC to be fair....
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to Bulls Crack:

I think I'd get more information on this website as its 'climbing specific'.
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to jim jones:

Yeah Jim I've realised that myself, I'll have to try and narrow it to a specific type of rock climbing. Thanks for the feedback .
OP CosmicOrder 02 Oct 2016
In reply to liamando:

Hahaha, yeah you could put it that way. Majority of these responses are helping me on my project , so I'm very grateful .
 Bulls Crack 03 Oct 2016
In reply to CosmicOrder:

Not sure you will! On here you will get what boots people like which will vary hugely due to foot size, grade, type of climbing favoured, habit etc.., whilst manufacturers will partly design and market boots for specific niches and/or a range of uses.

Your 'answer' is going to be a range of mid-range, general boots for widish feet I imagine!

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