UKC

The idea of this topic is to share videos that inspired you to work on certain climbing techniques/ tactics.
To get more of an idea what I mean, let me start with those two examples:

1) youtube.com/watch?v=ezNnE17A40k&
Namely, around 2:42 how he stops the swing with incredible core tension.
Lesson/inspiration - work on your core and on the technique to use it.
Drills/exercises - climbing overhangs and trying to control swings/ deadlifts

2) youtube.com/watch?v=euOqz01pkmg&
Namely, after 5:20 how she keeps fighting.
Lesson/inspiration - work on trying hard. Learn how to activate this mode and use it. It makes a huge difference, and it is far from trivial!
Drills - I guess power endurance type of trainings help best. Practice, practice, pracite.... / never say take

In reply to 8dreams:

Good clips. Ghisolfi really stops it dead on that swing. For me, someone who is a 'master' (for want of a less sexist word) at stopping swings dead is Shauna Coxey. Can't think of a specific clip but it's something I've noticed time and again when I see her in various comps. I think the ability to pull up quickly on the leading arm seems key to this technique too in many instances. Maybe offset pull ups would be a good training exercise.

The second clip is a classic Marcovic fight to the death, something she seems really good at. As much as I admire that it's interesting the contrast in style between her and the always always relaxed flow of Jain Kim. Both great climbers but with very different styles.


3) youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k& at 9.55
Lesson and inspiration - balancing speed and aggression with precision and perfect form.
Drills - Hmmm? Maybe lapping a hard boulder problem 3 - 4 times without rest. Hard redpoints.

In reply to 8dreams:

Something for people going into climbing:

youtube.com/watch?v=UZlGKEs31Cc&

I was lucky to get the whole DVD basically when I started climbing. I learned an absolute ton of invaluable advice. I'd suggest to any beginner to treat this as their bible for skill acquisition and movement to practice at the wall and at the crag. Pretty much all of it is on You Tube now as well.



Something more subtle and for more advanced climbers:

youtube.com/watch?v=3abV7_jnEVc& Have a look at Dave Macleod on Blind Vision and more importantly how he catches the crimp on Slingshot V11 (F8A) at Froggatt. Incredible openhanded strength.
I've been training that obsessively on the fingerboard each week and it never ceases to amaze my how much more useful it is than the crimp position. Even on limestone (especially on limestone abroad which is often pockety..).

In reply to stp:

Interesting point with regards to pulling on the leading arm, I will def try it out. Thanks a lot for the insight!

@zmv - Indeed, the Neil Greshams' video is one of the most helpful videos covering those basics. I also always suggest it to any beginner curious to learn proper technique.

- good second point as well, I was close crimping everything (including slopers) for my first 4 years. Since 1 year started training on the hangboard and by now my half crimp strength is almost as strong as the closed crimp. Def huge progress for me. Still long way to go on the open grip though.... at least I understand how important it is in the long term...

In reply to 8dreams:

Always found the Wild Country Crack School videos by the Wide Boyz interesting and helpful.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4616

Mind you, my jamming is still pretty dire...

In reply to stp:

I agree, found the Mina Markovic clip great. Interesting to see somebody at that level visibly fighting, such a contrast to Jain Kim always looking so cool and smooth.

In reply to stp:


The thing that impresses me most watching Shauna is the aura about her when she switches into The-Leader-Must-Not-Fall machine mode.

Here she is in the semi at Innsbruck this year. She has to flash W4 to be in the final:

https://youtu.be/jaxmbllSflY?t=2h16m4s

In reply to 8dreams:

Great thread idea! Love it

youtube.com/watch?v=QeR47AQ05Jo&
4:30. Adam talks about how he can only perform the match by swapping fingers very specifically. Opened my eyes that matching on tiny holds can be improved by very fast individual finger moves (think "fast caterpillar").

In reply to fuzzysheep01:


Totally agree. I was lucky to learn jamming from Tom!

There are another 2 videos from crack school on YT that never got a write up:

youtube.com/watch?v=mIdE-Dzzvlk&
Episode 7 - Advanced Fingers

youtube.com/watch?v=tMzG0ZrMP2c&
Episode 8 - Advanced Hands

The special features of the Century Crack DVD has some crazy (insane) offwidth technique explanation, but it's probably of no use to punters due to how advanced it is (i.e. you have to be totally comfortable with invert off-width climbing already)

In reply to stp:

I found this drill extremely good: youtube.com/watch?v=wXIzRVab3lg&
(it's from the self-coached climber). I did build up to it (in the related links are some other exercises).
I extend it by also doing outer flag only traverse, or inner flag only traverse, outer flag only vertical climbing, inner flag only vertical climbing - and have found my flagging ability, and awareness of the differences between flags skyrocket.

This video by Mark Reeves is pretty much the exact same thing, but shows vertical, and also shows drop knees and a special momentum kick thing: youtube.com/watch?v=h1GsQWWRKKo&
He has a special drill board, but I just do it on an easy wall.

In reply to SenzuBean:

Yeah, those are good for practicing flags. On a much more general note: initially, my thought process went smt like this - "oohhh yeah I remember those videos, I practice a fair bit, I had progress in flagging and I believe I am good in them and don't need to spend time on those drills anymore. Given what grades I climb, of course I know what flagging is and I can do it good".... indeed, I guess I can do it good, but actually everybody can learn so much more at any given point on almost any given technique. I think it was from the Power Company podcast when Kris was interviewing the guys from Position Over Everything, when one of them said - I just realized how much better I can dropknee (the guy is climbing smt like v10 as far as I recall)... so yeah, you can never achieve a "good enough" mastery in certain climbing techniques. I also recall a pro female sport climber going for some tricky bouldering and realizing that she could not (in her words) heelhook at all!!!

Another example that I remembered now (also quite funny imo):
youtube.com/watch?v=Bwu144guQyo&
from 6:00 onwards - "come on, come on,... yes, good, good... concentrate...I am on top rope, toooprope"
Lesson - Positive self talk and mind game

In reply to 8dreams:



youtube.com/watch?v=r_pg7RtQo3w& @ 2:20
I prefer this mantra "Focus on performance, not the goal. Focus on ..."

In reply to SenzuBean:

Yeah the flagging drill looks excellent. I noticed sometime ago that I never ever use inside flags. So drills like that look a great way to increase familiarity with them.

In reply to 8dreams:

Only tangentially climbing related, but... youtube.com/watch?v=F04dGK1_wYA&
Amazing.