UKC

I have just started climbing and I am looking for good places to climb in North Wales. It would need to be somehwere that is not too difficult and preferably outdoors. Any tips are most welcome

In reply to Chrissy Black:

Oooooo where to start? Just started. Well Tryfan Bach and Idwal Slabs are where a lot of people go. Lots of easy stuff, easy angle etc. East Face of Tryfan & Milestone Buttress have some of the easier classics, multi-pitch. Route finding can be tricky but not usually desperate. Llanberis pass has some very worthwhile routes Crackstone Rib being a good one at severe. And of course there is Tremadog on the coast which has not only easy walkins and classic routes but a cracking cafe too. Best bet drive to Capel Curig or Llanberis check out the guides (then you can see if you want a general guide or a particular area). Pla-Y-Brenin may run courses if you are interested

In reply to Chrissy Black:

Milestone Buttress in the Ogwyn Valley is a good place to start.

Also the Moelwyn crags

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

East face of Tryfan and much of the Llanberis pass are not really places for beginners at the best of times, and certainly not through the winter.

Chrissy - a few questions before we can give really good advice:

Just how recently have you started? What climbing have you done?
Can you lead on Trad gear or are you looking for sport routes?
Where in North Wales are you?

There are lots of smaller 'single pitch' crags that are probably better to start on - you can put up top ropes if you're not confident at placing gear, or move on to leading either sport or Trad - just depends on what you're looking for. And if you want to get started at this time of year choosing a crag that's sheltered and dry will be important.

In reply to Ron Rees Davies:


Agreed re-winter, but I started out in those places. There are some excellent easy routes there on a sunny day.
I would add to that however that anyone heading out to do multi-pitch for the first time is better to go with a more experienced partner.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:


(Puts hand up) I started my climbing career oni Idwal Slabs and then Flying Buttress in the Pass on a freezing cold weekend in the Winter. Maybe not the best of ideas but there you go - I didn't realise back then that there was a reason the crags were empty....

I have to confess I have turned into a bit of a fair weather climber all the same!

Anyway, all the above are good ideas.

In reply to Chrissy Black:

Tremadog (fantastic views also) and some of Tryfan chosen carefully are worth the journey.

Alternatively to escape the crowds a bit Glyder Fach at Ogwen may be worth a look along with Cwm Idwal.

If u fancy slate then a crag called 'Australia' near Llanberis offers easier slab routes (albeit some get slightly bold and run-out).

Holyhead Mountain at Gogarth is nice too.

Barmouth also contains easier climbs (on the trad face).


J

In reply to Duncan Bourne:


You can't be serious? You are pointing a beginner in the direction of a Severe, and and exposed one to boot.

It's lovely route, but not for someone who is just starting out........

In reply to Trangia:

If you are a severe climber then it is low in the grade. I would trust the OP to be the judge of their ability to climb severe or not.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:


Really? To make such a judgement you need experience which the OP has indicated they clearly don't have.

I think it is dangerous to urge a total beginner to to start off trying to lead* a Severe. They have come here for advice, and at this stage caution should be the rule when offering it.

* Because thy have come on this forum for advice I am assuming they don't have someone who can lead them, otherwise why wouldn't they be leaving the choice of climb to their leader, rather than asking on here?

In reply to Trangia:


How do you know what experience they have? My second ever lead was a severe.
Conversly I have know people who have climbed for years and have no crag sense.
I said that Crackstone Rib is a nice climb and that it is a severe. I did not say "climb Crackstone Rib it is practically a Diff." That would have been irresponsible. I believe in people having the sense to know their limitiations. Otherwise what would be the point in recommending anything?

In reply to Duncan Bourne:


FFS read the OP :
"I have just started"....."it would need to be ....not too difficult".......

That's not someone looking for an exposed severe multi-pitch like Tryfan or Cromlech. It's someone that wants Castle Inn, Caseg ffraith, Little buttress at Cyrau, Barmouth slabs or Craig y tonnau.

In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Fair enough.
Hey Chrissy! Don't do severe climbs till you are with someone who can show you the ropes.

Happy?