UKC

Advice about Portland

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Alessandro78 21 Jan 2017
Hello everyone,

New to the forum here.
Do you think it would be warm enough for climbing in Portland tomorrow (MetOffice says sunny day, 6-7degrees and 10 mph wind)?
If so which area would you recommend?

Thank you in advance,

Alessandro
 balmybaldwin 21 Jan 2017
In reply to Alessandro78:

Should be fine but it's noramlly a personal thing if it's "too cold" I guess look at the windspeed & direction and choose a crag that'll be sheltered from the wind
OP Alessandro78 21 Jan 2017
In reply to balmybaldwin:

Thank you very much
 The Ivanator 21 Jan 2017
In reply to Alessandro78:

Yes, it will be fine in the sun. East Coast crags (especially The Cuttings) are the most reliable bet at this time of year, though you may lose the sun later in the day.
 Kevster 21 Jan 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

No one mentioned the very sticky mud when its been wet on the west coast. Wear boots and take a rope bag. Better prepared than not.

I have no idea what its like currently, but I bet its OK at the moment.
OP Alessandro78 21 Jan 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

Thank you. I was thinking west coast maybe Blacknor Central to have sun from midmorning until sunset (we won't be there before10:30ish). Do you think is less reliable?

Alessandro
OP Alessandro78 21 Jan 2017
In reply to Kevster:

Thank you, good advice
 scott titt 21 Jan 2017
In reply to Alessandro78:
Judging from the conditions underfoot here, in Swanage, the paths on Portland will be absolutely fine. Ivan's suggestion of the Cuttings is usually reliable, tomorrow the wind is forecast from the SE, and will be along the cliff so will not be as warm as it normally is. Blacknor North should escape the wind but gets the sun late. Go to the Cuttings early on and then pop over to blacknor at lunchtime.
 kingborris 21 Jan 2017
In reply to Alessandro78:

Given the wind direction blacknor central would be a good bet. Might be a bit greasy until the sun gets on it though.
 The Ivanator 21 Jan 2017
In reply to Alessandro78:

As Kevster points out paths on the West side are often an issue in Winter. Getting to Blacknor Central was fairly interesting last Summer (from either end), don't think I'd be choosing that as a Winter venue myself.
It takes a while for the sun to hit the West side (although exactly when varies quite a bit depending on the angle of the cliff sector), some bits may get sun from 12, others not till 2. Once the sun hits it still takes a while for the rock to warm a little.
With a 10.30ish start you will get more hours of sun on the East side (most of the Cuttings will hold sun till 2) and the rock won't be so icy on arrival, also it remains bearable for a bit after the sun has gone. The cliff base at the Cuttings is not mud prone and has had a very recent clearing of the invasive scrubby vegetation.
However if you are feeling hardy and adventurous then by all means give the West Coast a whirl.
 Kevster 21 Jan 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

Maybe a little more depth.

East coast, sun in the morning, little mud to worry about, and shorter walk ins.
Cuttings is great if your in the high 6s and all 7s. Below that some people find it less inspiring and it does suffer from polish.
Nedd fields cheyne wears area is better for those in the 5s and 6s.

West coast, sun early afternoon, longer routes with a greater selection of quality. Longer walk ins, aproach often is mud prone in wet times. Mr titt above has said swanage paths are fine. Therefore I'd say portland is fine too, given they are near to each other and suffer the same mud/ weather.
Blacknor central is a great area, North will be cold, South has a few access issues due to land slide, but is good too. South west crags are good, and last time I was there had a confidence rope in place for the descent.

Personally, I'd go cuttings first, if it balmy, packed, or not ticking your boxes, then try the west.
OP Alessandro78 21 Jan 2017
In reply to Alessandro78:

Thanks everyone, very helpful. We'll what it feels like tomorrow and decide if to do east then west or straight west. Thanks again,

Alessandro

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...