UKC

I just got a new pair of 8mm half-ropes. I notice the DMM bug (which is my normal belay) says it's only suitable down to 8.5mm.

Has anyone tried the bug with half ropes at 8mm, is it is still okay? I guess with an 8mm single it would be too slippy.

I know they also have a Buggette but was trying to avoiding buying a different device.

In reply to springfall2008:

It will probably be disconcerting for abseiling with. It would probably catch small falls ok but when you need it for a big catch it won't provide enough friction.

In reply to springfall2008:

I think production of the Bugette has ceased, but there must be stock around i guess.

However, the fact that you're using skinny half ropes suggests you will be using them for multipitch possibly winter climbs so i'd recommend switching to a guide plate to give you more versatility in any case.

The Black Diamond ATC Guide is suitable down to 7.7mm ropes and DMM Pivot is rated down to 7.5mm ropes, although they say"optimised" for 8mm+.

In reply to springfall2008:

I have used a bugette on 8.1mm ropes before. I found it scary for abseiling and unconvincing as a belay plate. I would either get something like a bugette or trade in the bug for a more modern general purpose device.

In reply to springfall2008:

Get a device rated for the rope

Bugette sadly no longer available
Latest equivalent dmm offer, which is presumably an updated bugette
http://dmmclimbing.com/products/mantis-belay-device/

In reply to John Kelly:
Looks like a copy of the Black Diamond ATC XP...
Also says it can be used with 11mm so def not an updated buggette either.

Does say it will work with 7.3mm ropes though so should be good to go.

In reply to WildCamper:

Your right, it looks like works on the v slot and grooves so different from buggette but 7.3mm should be good with 8mm rope,

In reply to springfall2008:

I've tried a bugette with a 7.9 and found it scary to abseil with and didn't seem to be able to give a great deal of friction any way I tried it. Was not inspired to try holding a leader fall with it and shoved it in the back of the gear draw, never to be used again. I imagine a STD bug would be terrifying/dangerous probably in rapid succession.

Lee

In reply to springfall2008:

Clearly belay devices are rated to work in an optimum way with particular diameters of rope and the manufacturers recommendations are there for a reason.
In the interest of balancing talk of certain doom I would point out that if you are an experienced belayer and alert you can both abseil safely and hold falls on ropes that are below the recommended range of a belay plate.
I would rather a trusted belayer with a slightly incompatible rope/device combo than a belayer with all the right gear, but no idea.

In reply to all:

In general I find devices with roughly triangular slots more versatile (e.g. ATC XP). The thinner the rope, the deeper it sits in the slot, making the friction obtained more or less the same.

In reply to springfall2008:

Could use a MicroJul

(listens for sound of worms, and cans...)

In reply to springfall2008:

I really like the bug as a belay device but it is not suitable for ropes this thin.