UKC

Ive been using a purcell prussik as a personal tether/anchor for years now and I am quite happy with it.
However id like to have the ability to shorten the tether with one hand

ive climbed with some people who use an easy daisy or the petzl connect.
https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Lanyards/CONNECT-ADJUST#.WJq19PKzkg8


has anyone used a DIY version of the connect? Im thinking a bit of rope and a progress capture device of some sort might work -- micro traxion or ropeman -- youd gain one handed shortening but lengthening becomes more challenging

open to suggestions/ideas

thanks

In reply to valjean:

Perhaps Austria Alpin 50:50 biner and Petzl Tibloc... All fine as long as you keep your weight on it (so perhaps backup with a prusik).

In reply to valjean:

Use your purcell prusik with a guide plate and two krabs at one end.

Shock absorbency of the purcell plus spare belay plate and karabiners if you need them.

Possibly replace one krab with a maillon.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Something like this might be an alternative the Petzl Connect:

https://www.trekkinn.com/outdoor-mountain/kong-slyde/136026651/p?utm_source...

In reply to valjean:


Out of interest, why?

In reply to valjean: The best of the cheaper options is the Kong Slyde https://www.kong.it/en/2-products/items/f38-aid-climbing/p327-slyde which allows one handed adjustment although not quite as smoothly as the Petzl one.

Only issue is getting hold of one. The previous importers are out of stock (my mate bought all the ones they had left) and I'm not sure they are readily available anywhere.

In reply to valjean:

Be very careful with this. Old ropemen i.e. the ones with the extruded cam will cut through your rope like a knife through margerine under a normal fall, let alone a factor 2. Any others will strip the sheeth of the cord. Not recommended. Is the Petzl one really that expensive especially when you consider it's cost per usage? They are bloomin good too...

In reply to valjean:

I've tried various options (not exactly home made, but mostly modified a bit - in chronological order:

Nylon daisy chain with a fifi hook and an old captive eye krab of a DMM Mamba quick draw on a decent weight of cord. Simple.

full strength Edelrid easy aider, but with the ridiculously stiff larks foot loop removed. Connected to harness with a maillon. Rather bulky, and prone to icing up, but properly strong

Petzl Connect - not yet used - but it won't fit a BD via ferrata semi-locking krab, which is a pain. The krab ideally needs to be round in section and not too big. Not used properly yet but looks to be the best solution - connected to harness with a maillon to keep the bulk down. Need to go shopping for an easy to unlock, round section, non-freezing wide opening krab - one of those magnetic BD ones maybe if they're the right shape.

In reply to Rick Graham:

may have to play around with that. seems like it would work.

In reply to beardy mike:
i saw the tests on these and i thought it was cut the sheath at 4kn... other ascenders cut the sheath at higher forces. I use a ropeman 1 and a microcender for TR solo... currently the ropeman is the backup. but next season i may switch it so that the ropeman is the main one and the microcender is the backup. open to the possibility of just switching the ropeman to something else too like a traxion

i think i was just seeing if there was a way around adding another piece of kit hanging on my harness. just a thought really

In reply to NottsRich:

hard pointing to ice screws, other pro, ice tools just in case....

In reply to A Reid:

thanks, ill keep an eye out for this

In reply to nniff:

Hi sniff, Ive been using the Petzl adjust for over a year now with a BD RockLock Magnetron Crab an it has been faultless.
Its the perfect round bar size, is super smooth to operate on handed (both extending and taking in) and its been very resistant to freezing so far.

I was kind of dubious about the BD crabs given the novelty and price (although I get their stuff on pro-deal so its less of a factor ) but I find them to be exceptional.. the best praise I can give is that most of the time I don't notice them (like most truly great pieces of design) and when I do its usually with the thought of "why aren't all lockers like this?".

The Adjust itself has become pretty indispensable for me, its good for aiding in a pinch, sport climbing, instructing, it massively speeds up multi-pitching and it actually makes belaying much more comfortable as you can micro adjust your self to different positions while hanging.

In reply to gi:

Mmm. Those BD magnetron krabs aren't exactly cheap, are they. Currently making do with a big old Troll HMS, working on the 80/20 rule - we'll see how I get on. I do like the Connect Adjust though. Very neat.

In reply to valjean:

Thanks. I've got a sling larks footed to my harness with knots at various intervals to create small loops. I use this to clip into belays, screws, threads, etc. Also really useful for multipitch abseils. I can easily clip in one handed, and then shorten it one handed as well. Would this work for you?

In reply to gi:

I'm also a massive fan. I use a Vaporlock Magnetron for my belay krab and find it superb. I've also got a couple more for rigging belays.

Even in Winter it still works fine; it occasionally sticks slightly but no worse than normal screwgates tending to freeze shut.

If anyone wants a free one, there is one sitting somewhere in the undergrowth below the second belay of the The Hyll Drem Girdle (HVS 5a)!

In reply to beardy mike:


Hi, is this true? Yes, not ideal and the potential to damage your rope, especially if it has been used a lot and hence the ridges sharped (hence the MarkII), but: cut like a knife through margarine? I remember watching Derek take falls onto it at the Dewerstone during its development with no real issues.

In reply to David Coley:

Was watching the video by ENSA and was thinking definitely not belay off a system like that. Maybe a knife through marge is a bit ott. But I'd not really be recommending it as a system when there are better ready made systems...

In reply to David Coley:

heres the tests on it

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/crr_pdf/2001/crr01364.pdf

4kn, makes me rethink about using it as my tr solo back up . probably better off as the main device

In reply to NottsRich:

it works, just would loose the ability of microadjustments that a purcell or the connect gives you.

In reply to valjean:
Haha there you go - you you managed to find the relevent info... yesterday I was out and didn't have good web access. The link I was refering to was this one: youtube.com/watch?v=DpWKrghSLao&

Super interesting (if you're a total geek).

3.15 in is where you get to see a ropeman shredding a rope.

In reply to nniff:

- connected to harness with a maillon to keep the bulk down.

Why not use a lark's foot, as shown in the manufacturer's instructions?

In reply to beardy mike:


Agreed.

In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

+1 for the Slyde! Bought one in Tenerife 5 years back, it's tiny, light, and costs a fiver. No shock-absorption, but then , I'm not expecting or using with a need for that.

In reply to scott titt:

Because when you add two ropes, a spinner leash and bit of tat with a fifi on it, there's altogether too much going on. Maillon seems altogether neater. Other than that, no reason at all