UKC

I recently asked Petzl for their technical advice on using the Grigri 2 with trad gear. This is useful info.... discuss....

Quote direct from Petzl
"The Grigri 2 can be used to belay trad leads, however the user should be aware that the device results in higher peak impact forces on the anchor than a non-auto-locking belay device.
 
There is a comparison of the forces involved between the Grigri 2, and the Reverso 4 here: https://www.petzl.com/GB/en/Sport/Influence-of-the-belay-device?ProductName...
 
To quote from this document:
“Slippage in the REVERSO 4 has the effect of limiting the forces at work. The difference between GRIGRI and REVERSO 4 can be significant: up to 30% less force on the anchor.

The climber experiences a softer catch with the REVERSO 4 in these configurations.

The impact on the belayer is reduced, the force is weaker due to rope slippage. However, control of the rope, and thus stopping the fall, remains dependent on the belayer being very alert.

Advice:
The belay device should be suited to the situation.

Slippage in the REVERSO 4 increases climber displacement: one must be especially vigilant where there is a risk of hitting the ground or a ledge. This slippage can make stopping a fall particularly difficult for the belayer: gloves must be used, especially with a new skinny rope.”
Because there are many different variables on every climb it is up to the climber to decide on the most appropriate belay device for that route (or situation)."
End quote
 

In reply to barry donovan:

Did you have any particular concerns or comments? I can't see much there that appears to be anything other than common sense, let alone surprising.

In reply to Aly:


Or that hasn´ t been discussed ad nauseum before.

In reply to barry donovan:

I find it really hard to get both ropes into the grigri. I think it's a design fault.

In reply to Aly:

That was what I thought too. There didn't seem to be anything new there.

In reply to john arran:


Double 5 mills go in a treat

In reply to john arran:

Simple solution, put one rope in the device, and with the other put a Munter hitch on the sticky out lever thing.

In reply to john arran:


...that has been corrected in the various semi-automatic braking devices (Edelrid Juls, Mammut Smart Alpine, CT Alpine Up, etc.) The Grigri's increased loading that results from no slippage is probably comparable for these devices.