UKC

Going to Paklencia and potentially other regions around there.

Can anyone recommend a decent comprehensive book of Paklencia or areas around?

Also, would anyone advise against a hire car there?

Thanks in advance for advice.

Tom

In reply to Somerville:

This looks like the obvious one to go for: http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Paklenica-Rock-climbing-Guideb...
Brand new edition. I have the old one which was perfectly fine.

Then this one covers everything else: http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Croatia-Sports-Climbing-Guideb...

In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Hi Chris,

Thanks for that. ill go for your recommendation. I'm no forking out £35.

I'm guessing you have been, whats the grading like? is it well bolted? etc, I'm taking my girlfriend, she gets slightly nervous leading sometimes, don't we all.

Thanks

In reply to Somerville:

Paklenica has a long history on the UKC forum, search the older threads. Briefly, single-pitch routs are slightly overbolted. Multi-pitch cruxes are bolted safely, other pitches weaker than the crux have proportionally less bolts. Good bolted belays. A nut set, few friends and slings are needed.

Grades feeled harder at first for me, because the very good friction of the local weathered limestone make possible such moves which I do not dare on home crags. However, the crux of best routes got some polishing during the years.

In reply to Somerville:

It's mostly okay bolting wise. The grades are all over the bloody place below 6b though on the single pitch.

There is a 4b that's closer to 6a+ and a 4c that stopped my mate, a 7a climber, dead.

The climbing is really good though just eyeball the route first.

In reply to Somerville:

Just be careful and don't get carried away by the grades. Especially if you see a following names credited for first ascents : Francek Knez, Silvo Karo, Filip Bence and Pavle Kozjek.

In reply to proandras:

Thanks for the advice, super light trad rack will be packed.

Ill watch out for the grades and polish!

Thanks again, happy cragging.

In reply to Kid Spatula:

Haha, oh dear. would you recommend a good place to start where the grades are somewhat true to the guide?

Thanks for the words.
Tom

In reply to matejn:

Noted! Thanks.

In reply to Somerville:

I'm sure they had a copy of the paklenica guide in the sale section at Hitch'n'hike when we called in on monday. I assume it's the older one that another poster referred to. Give them a ring.

In reply to Somerville:

If you're only climbing in the Paklenica gorge I suppose you don't need a car if you're staying fairly close.
As for the guidebook, it's available in the tourist shop up the gorge and is lots cheaper than buying over here. Although you won't be doing any swotting up, the articles online give you a very good idea. Went a couple of years ago.... it rained a lot. But we worked round it.
Enjoy. Robb

In reply to cragtyke:

Thanks man, i may do.

cheers

In reply to Robb Bert:

Thanks you Rob, the good guide here is about £35, silly.

cheers,

Tom