UKC

Hi all, I have a question.
I am in need of a new pair of rock boots but am struggling to find the right ones.
My all time faves were the ascent (best boots ever) then they discontinued so I moved to the vmile, just as good but sadly now discontinued.
So.... What is the closest shoe to those? Been looking at the Gambit online or the Verdon? Any ideas?

In reply to Obi Wan:

Nobody?
Or how about the evolve Kronos or Raptor?

In reply to Obi Wan:

I had the same problem myself. Couldn't find a decent all day/long route shoe that liked my feet after they stopped making the ascent (v-mile never made it into the shops near me).

The shoe I ended up using to replace them for all day routes was the red chilli durango, but its a fairly basic lace up without the grippy heel for descents. Not a great technical shoe but I can keep them on for hours.

If you find anything more suitable then let me know - I could really do with a pair.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Yeah, not overly keen on lace ups myself, prefer velcros. I'm toying with the kronos or the gambit, they look the closest match to the ascent or vmile.

In reply to Obi Wan:

Try some anasazi velcros? If you size them right, they're a comfy all day shoe (for me).

In reply to Obi Wan:

Millet Hybrid is the closest I've seen to the old Ascent (or Scarpa Marathon).

And climbs really well, plus is comfy. If lookin' for an all day alpine boot, get slightly larger than what you wear on 5.10s. I'm 42 on 5.10s and 42 2/3 is perfect for all day stuff.

In reply to jezb1:

Tried anasazi and not too keen.

In reply to HeMa:

Those millet do look very similar, have you tried them? Would usually avoid millet and cheaper highstreet brands for gear but...

In reply to Obi Wan:

I don't think Millet the gear manufacturer and Millets the shop are connected.

In reply to Obi Wan:

Yes, as a punter can climb up to french 7a safe trad in them... albeit they are better for more casual climbing (my it was a redpoint, but then again my rp is not much greater on sport with performance shoes).


And yes, Millet.fr is completely different to Millets -shop you have in the UK.

BTW. The newer model Hybrid was selected as the best alpineshoe in 2016 by Rock & Ice (or some other 'murican climbing mag). I still have them older models and use those, but the difference isn't that great, I'd almost say that the difference is almost cosmetic/color.

In reply to HeMa:

They look promising. I'm currently looking around to see if anyone in my end of the UK stocks them, without success so far.

In reply to davidbeynon:

They're not. Millet actually make really nice kit, but are somewhat tarnished in the UK by their misfortune of sharing a name with a piss-poor retailer.

In reply to davidbeynon:

I think you might not be that lucky... But if you find an e-retailer in EU, they'll ship to ya.

For sizing reference, I generally wear my street shoe size in 5.10s (Eur 42) and depending on the model they have been rather consistant (so high perf shoes like Team and Quantum as tight, but tolerable. And all day shoes, like Moccasym and Anazasi velcro are comfy after initial break in period). For the Hybrid, size Eur 42 was more on the performance than comfy side.... But 42 2/3rds or what ever the next size was bang on for high altitude rocks (like Voie Suisse on Grand Capucin).

In reply to HeMa:

I never buy these things without trying them on any more - too much variation even within a brand. Presumably they are quite common in european shops?

In reply to davidbeynon:


Only with Sportiva, in my experience. 5.10 and Evolve have been really consistent in their sizing (depending on the group though, so high perf. ones are tight and leisure ones are just that when sized the same).


Can't really say, perhaps so.

In reply to davidbeynon:


Found them! Evolv bandit sc ! Currently on sale at rock and run for 50 squidge.

In reply to Obi Wan:

I will see if I can find somewhere down my way that sells them asap. Thanks.

In reply to Obi Wan:

climbing shoes with grippy/cushioned heels seem to have gone out of fashion - probably largely because these days the more 'techy' approach shoes are almost as good on rock and even comfier. Boreal still do some with a bit of extra under the heel, or if you like the 5.10 fit I'd try a pair of the new Gambits. I had a pair of the (quite rare) old model which were very comfy (for my feet at least) and also got me up my first E3, a slab route with some fairly tiny foot placements. They seemed as grippy as my current Anasazis but without the aggressive heel.

In reply to ripper:
My problem with technical approach shoes generally is that I find myself absent mindedly wearing them all the time and the super whizzy soles are wrecked by the time I take them on a second trip.

In reply to davidbeynon:


I'm guilty of the same - there's really no need but I tend to find myself wearing mine to approach the indoor wall, the supermarket, the office, the pub....

In reply to ripper:

I have done the same...

Then I sourced some cheap Sanuks, and have been sold ever since... When bought at a bargain, I rarely pay more than 25 Eur a pair, which generally last a season or to...

So I can save the approach shoes for their intended purpose...