UKC

I have never stayed in an Alpine hut before. I bivied outside the Albert Premier hut in the late 80s when I was a student, but that is the closest that I have got!

I have just made an application for me and my 16yr old daughter to stay for five nights at the "Hosaas restaurant" high up near the Weissmies which we intend to climb, along with an attempt on the Lagginhorn.

I have just had a phone call from a very nice lady who struggled to understand why we would want to stay there for five nights (75 swiss francs half board per-person), but nevertheless is sending me through an email so that I can book in.

Am I barking up the wrong tree??? Should I be looking to book in a different "mountain refuge"???

Any help greatly received.

In reply to BigHairyIan:

The Hohsaas restaurant is directly at the top of the lift. Most people would stay there 1 night to do the Weissmeis or perhaps 2 nights to combine the Weissmeis and Lagginhorn. That is why the lady was quite surprised. I don't think there is so much to do up there for 5 nights.

The conditions vary quite a bit on the Weissmeis from that side due to the presence of crevasses and seracs. Someone who has been up more recently than me would be better to advise and they are likely to vary depending on the winter snowfall and within the summer season. I think the route from the Almegeller hut is now considered more the normal route as it is much less conditions dependant.

Depending on conditions you could do Almegeller hut 1 or 2 nights (with a route on the Dri Horlini as well) then traverse the Weismeis to the Hohsass. Climb the Lagginhorn then descend to the Weismeis hut and finish off with the Jegihorn the next day. Much more satisfying and varied in my opinion.

The Weissmies hut is probably better situated for the Laginhorn as you would have to loose height from the Hohsaas to access the start of the normal route. The Weissmeis hut is quite a nice place to stay and has additional access to the Jegihorn with its Via Ferrata and quality rock routes.

In reply to SiWood:


This was definitely the case two summers ago, and I can recommend the Almageller route for the Weissmies.

Another option from Hohsaas would be the South-southwest Ridge (AD) of the Lagginhorn (AD), descending via the normal route. Lots of easy climbing, but quite long so not to be underestimated. Hohsaas is definitely the best place to stay for this route.

In reply to BigHairyIan:

Huts are pretty basic (group bunks etc are quite common still) so five nights would get a bit tiresome. Probably much better to stay one or at most two nights and then head down, have a shower etc, before going up again to a different hut. You will see more areas and can also juggle weather easily (and campsites are much less than 75F a night!. Also in general Switzerland is eye wateringly expensive - consider Euro countries too.

In reply to BigHairyIan:

Thank you for all the advice. I will certainly be amending my plans now!

In reply to SiWood:

I agree with the rest of your post but would point out just for general information that in fact the Lagginhorn normal route can be accessed directly from Hohsaas without the need to descend.

In reply to jon:

Also worth noting that rockfall is increasingly an issue on the standard route on the Lagginnorn.

Hohass perfectly located for S ridge of Lagginhorn or N ridge of Weissmies.

In reply to BigHairyIan:

I forgot to mention that any accommodation (even campsites) in the Saas Valley includes a "citizens' pass" as part of the 7 CHF per night tourist tax. This gives you unlimited access to most of the cable cars and mountain railways: http://www.saas-fee.ch/en/citizens-pass/

In reply to BigHairyIan:

If you are planning on valley nights and want a decent budget (by Swiss standards) non camping option then the Bergheimat in Saas Grund (not far from the Hohsaas lift) is a good bet. They also have a small indoor swimming pool (free to guests) that I've appreciated after a hard mountain day more than once.
If you want to do the excellent Via Ferrata on the Jegihorn and don't have the specialist kit there are gear shops in Saas Grund that hire it out. Further up the valley there is also a gentler Via Ferrata on the Mittaghorn.
Taking a "Monster Scooter" from Kreuzboden (the mid station on the Hohsaas lift) riding the ski pistes down to the valley is fun, if you like that sort of thing.

In reply to BigHairyIan:

Stay in the Weissmies hut much nicer