UKC

... wall, what would it be?

In reply to Stanhope:

Alright, I'll go first.

It would be the climber-bro's. Think it's safe to say that 'bros' of any description are pretty tiresome. But the climber-bros are a funny bunch. They probably suffered at the hands of the traditional sports-bros at school, found climbing and are now perpetuating the bro culture in their own way.

Testosterone is an awkward hormone.

In reply to Stanhope:

What is a "bro"?

In reply to Stanhope:


That'll be me then.

In reply to bouldery bits:


Cool, brah!

In reply to Stanhope:

You've got the postage dude, now send it.

V4's all round.

In reply to bouldery bits:

Dude SEND IT. YOU TOTALLY GAVE ME A BRONER

In reply to Stanhope:

Well if all the other people whose lives seem to run to roughly the same 10-6 schedule as mine could get jobs on nights that'd be great.

In reply to Stanhope:

I would change people who scream veRY LOUDLY when they fall
I mean i can't say i wouldn't let out a little whimper if i took a proper lead fall, and i occasional grunt or something when making a difficult move, but at least i dont make small children jump

In reply to Stanhope:
Ban youth development climbers during peak times.

There's nothing worse for group morale than watching someone who can't even count to 10 onsight a V10.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

V-grades.

And striking up conversations with belayers while they are belaying.

In reply to AlanLittle:

>And striking up conversations with belayers while they are belaying.
THIS!

In reply to Stanhope:

Stretching/yoga beneath the board. The biscuit factory (no longer my local) used to tell people that it was the ideal place.

In reply to Stanhope:

Sell cheeseburgers nom nom nom....

In reply to tspoon1981:

"Send it where? Got a big enough envelope?"

In reply to Stanhope:

Not closing off half the routes during opening times in order to route-set.

In reply to Vigier:

You try and find a route setter willing to work nights!

In reply to Vigier:
My local wall has a reasonable system for route-setting. There are 20 lines with 3 routes to each line. During the Winter there is a two week cycle of replacing about 5 lines in a set order. It drops to 3 to 4 weeks in Summer when lots of people go outside. It is done on a quiet day (Monday) and a timetable is published so every knows about it. This ensures that for a small wall the users never get bored with what is on offer - also when you are trying a particular climb you know you have to get it done before it changes - a good motivator.
The only thing I would change about my wall is the smell & heat from the cafe which shares the same space - the top of the climbs can get very tasty when French Onion Soup is on the menu.

In reply to Stanhope:

Possibly not a culture issue but I have a dislike for inconsistent setting that can be miles away from the intended grade, especially if it's super reachy - the sort of climbs where a V9 level climber can't stick a V2 problem, because it's been set by someone tall.

In reply to Stanhope:

People whinging about routesetting.

Routes are the key to a good wall, and good walls will find the right balance of setting. Don't moan when setting causes area closures, because you'd only be moaning when you're bored of old routes. It has to happen, and given that a good reset is going to take the best part of the day, not a chance will you find many night shift routesetters, or any better times for them to set. Accept that there's setting happening, it is noisy, it will cause closures but you will appreciate a fresh set of routes afterwards.
Grades. Bloody hell this grinds my gears. Just cos a route is graded wrong, doesn't mean it's a crap route. Just because you're a wad and onsighted that route doesn't give you the right to deem it the wrong grade. And just because it's reachy doesn't mean it's the wrong grade, it's just set reachy, which I accept is bad setting.
Feed it back to the walls, don't say the grades are off , and that's it, give some actual feedback on the route. Let the wall know if the setter has done a good job, not just if the grades are a bit off.
Stop bloody downgrading stuff just because you think you're mr experience. Someone could've had a massive confidence boost, then you pee on their fire by having the wall downgrade their first 6c. 6a not a 6a cos you got a bit scared and couldn't finish it? Maybe you're just not the 6a climber you once were.
Climb, enjoy the routes, and give worthwhile feedback.
End of rant, for now.

In reply to Stanhope:

I'd bring back smoking and chop the price of a pint in half.

In reply to Clauso:
Enforce a dress code on entry, no Ron Hills. No outfits where genitalia are clearly distinguishable.

In reply to Stanhope:
Routes that are dangerous because the route setters are most likely said "bros" who got wedgied at school and find it difficult to engage intellect.

You know, crux move right at the top of the boulder above several jagged volumes poking out below it... made worse if its on a slab.

Oh and dyno-dyno routes, you know the sort of sprint onto the wall for a leaping dyno move which bears no resemblance to actual climbing and blocks off half the wall for others.

In reply to MrWayne:

Those two & please, if you have to put so much chalk on the holds try and brush some off when you've finished.

In reply to Stanhope:

I am returning to the UK from Belgium, and while UK walls are superior in many ways, I will miss being able to chill out at my local Bouldering wall's bar with a Chimay Bleu.

In reply to Dorchester:

In reply to planetmarshall:

I hear Stronghold in Tottenham are doing beers. No Chimays, but some decent local brews.