UKC

By "Finale" I mean the venue, not the last ever climb (I hope).
I have spent more than enough on guidebooks from which I've had very little use, so before I buy another, what's the view on Finale for easy routes (that means LESS than 5+)? Also, is the grading harsh or soft?
Recovering from injury and fighting off the effects of ageing means I could really do with some nice 4s and 4+s, but I'm not interested in going to a venue which has a couple of token 4s at the ar$e end of the crag where the rock is rubbish and the climbing unappealing.
I understand that there's been a lot of routes put up on new crags in the area, and am wondering if any of these would serve my purpose.
Any other suggestions for single pitch sport in northern Italy which might appeal would be welcome.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

I spent a few days at Finale about four or five years ago and I found the grading to be pretty challenging. I seem to remember that I was climbing around 6/6+ and found everything much harder than I expected. But that might just have been me. I sort of got the impression that the local climbers took a little pride from their tough grading? But as I say that was a few years ago and there may well have been changes in grading or lots of new and easier lines put up since then.

In reply to alastairmac:

I've been there twice, last time about 2 years ago. It is an immense place with many crags and, as you noted, with new ones being developed all the time, so I've only barely scratched the surface. However from what I have done and seen, we all felt the grades there to definitely be on the harsh side, and don't recall all that many below 5--though, given the nature of the area, I guess there could be entire crags full of 4s that I don't recall. For a good selection of climbs at that level, and a bit friendlier grading, have you considered San Vito on Sicily?

In reply to Rog Wilko:

opposite the Toraino cave has a good number of 4s and 4+s at a gentle angle.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

hi, i havent been there for a while, but it is perfectly possible to spend a week or two at grades 4 and 5 and toproping the ocasional 6a. also some easy and short multipitches on Cucco. this will lead you around the area in search of relevant sectors - Perti, Corno, and smaller sectors dotted around.

at that time, it was just average grading i thought. certeinly not Kalymnos but also not classic Mallorca 5+ that would be 6b in other places.

Enjoy!

In reply to Rog Wilko:

oh, and other suggestions: everything around Trieste ... Napoleonica, Sistiana, Val Rosandra, Crni kal ...

In reply to Rog Wilko:

The 2011 Finale climbing by Tomassini describes Cava di Rio Fine (an abandoned quarry) as "the only sector that exists at the moment in Finale with easy and well-bolted routes".

Arene Candide

You might be able to check the website mentioned if this is still the case.

In reply to Rog Wilko: Hi Rog, hope you're still cranking. Been many times; I suggest you rent a full suss bike instead and get an uplift for upto 15 miles of singletrack heaven back to town.

In reply to mark catcher:

Hi Mark,
I have to admit I don't know what a full suss bike is. I've led a very sheltered life.

In reply to Rog Wilko: to be honest at 4 or 4+ I'd choose another venue. Finale is normally quite steep and comes alive in the 6s and upwards. There are some good routes in your range but not enough to a visit imo.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Thanks for the responses, folks.