In reply to jimtitt:
> I´ m not sure when the concept was first introduced (at least in the form it´ s used nowadays), it certainly wasn´ t around 50 years ago when I started climbing.
Need to do a bit of research but TBH, I cannot remember it not being used.
Were you paying attention then
>The problem is the basic concept is simple so beginners latch onto it but the difference between the theoretical fall factor and the effective fall factor isn´ t emphasised enough. For example adding more pieces of protection to reduce the fall factor will usually be contra-productive as the effective fall factor is increased.
Admittedly a free running rope helps, but so does a close runner to avoid a long fall and possibly hitting ledges.
>The concept also completely ignores the effects of belay device effectiveness and belayer weight which are the dominating factors defining the forces in moderate to larger falls, let alone that the rope dynamics aren´ t a simple spring, all of which make the fall factor concept basically meaningless even for expert climbers let alone a suitable
theme for beginners.
We know it complicated
>Knowing about fall factors isn´ t going to keep anyone alive
I think it is a useful simplification. But TBH being good at placing gear is far more useful for trad climbing
What has pissed me off for years is being told fall factors are the be all and and all.
My gut feeling always was that it was far more complicated.