/ Rockfax Dorset

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beefy_legacy on 16 May 2017
Does the Rockfax Dorset guide include the number of bolts on a route like the CC guide does? I'm debating which one to get and that feature on the sample CC pages looks quite neat.
ewanjp - on 16 May 2017
In reply to beefy_legacy:

No it doesn't. Can't say I've missed the feature. I'd get which ever is newer and covers the most routes.
Graeme Hammond - on 16 May 2017
In reply to beefy_legacy:

Don't know which guide is best but i would say be careful of only taking the exact number of draws for any given line for a number of reasons; as with any guide there is likely to be the odd mistake or typo, you could drop a draw or an additional bolt could have been placed since publication you wouldn't want to run out!
In reply to beefy_legacy:
> Does the Rockfax Dorset guide include the number of bolts on a route like the CC guide does? I'm debating which one to get and that feature on the sample CC pages looks quite neat.

Now, we deliberately didn't include bolt counts in the guide. They were in Pete's first Rockfax produced back in 1994 but we found a few were wrong and knowing the incorrect number of bolts is much worse than not knowing the number of bolts at all. It made it obvious to me that if Pete Oxley can make mistakes about the number of bolts (and in 1994 he had placed most of them) then any one can!

Additionally, when routes are rebolted the number of bolts does sometimes change, or lower-offs can be moved extending routes (this happened in El Chorro which is why we stopped including individual pitch lengths) which is not a problem if the information isn't included in the first place, or is general information giving a rough guideline only.

I think climbers should always be responsible for making important decisions like this. Relying on research, that may have changed since publication, for your choice of rope length of number of quick-draws is expecting too much from a guidebook.

Alan
Post edited at 12:13
The Ivanator - on 16 May 2017
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

The Rockfax does include several crags that have been developed since the CC guide, places like the Bower & Bottom Deckio areas at The Cuttings, the Veranda (Battleship), Nicodemus Knob, The Rampart (Wallsend), Dungecroft Quarry (Cheyne Wears) and Sunlover's Slab.
Particularly valuable for those climbing in more modest grades.
You can make a pretty good assessment of the number of bolts from the base of most Portland routes, stick a couple of extra draws on for any bolts that may be hidden from below and it is all good.
beefy_legacy on 16 May 2017
In reply to beefy_legacy:
OK, thanks guys. Will probably stick with Rockfax then. I like the bouldering guides.
Post edited at 13:13
La benya - on 16 May 2017
In reply to beefy_legacy:

nad you cant underestimate how annoying the odd format of the CC guide is
In reply to La benya:

> nad you cant underestimate how annoying the odd format of the CC guide is

There are certainly sturdiness issues with guidebooks of that landscape A5 format. I looked at this in some detail with a printer and they said that you can't use the normal drawn on cover over sewn internal sections in this orientation since there simply isn't enough spine to hold the pages together.

Alan
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beefy_legacy on 16 May 2017
In reply to La benya:

Good point. I've got one like that and the spine is already dodgy after one 3 day trip. (Not a CC one though)

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