In reply to beefy_legacy:
> Does the Rockfax Dorset guide include the number of bolts on a route like the CC guide does? I'm debating which one to get and that feature on the sample CC pages looks quite neat.
Now, we deliberately didn't include bolt counts in the guide. They were in Pete's first Rockfax produced back in 1994 but we found a few were wrong and knowing the incorrect number of bolts is much worse than not knowing the number of bolts at all. It made it obvious to me that if Pete Oxley can make mistakes about the number of bolts (and in 1994 he had placed most of them) then any one can!
Additionally, when routes are rebolted the number of bolts does sometimes change, or lower-offs can be moved extending routes (this happened in El Chorro which is why we stopped including individual pitch lengths) which is not a problem if the information isn't included in the first place, or is general information giving a rough guideline only.
I think climbers should always be responsible for making important decisions like this. Relying on research, that may have changed since publication, for your choice of rope length of number of quick-draws is expecting too much from a guidebook.
Alan
Post edited at 12:13