UKC

Hey All.
Be nice please, new here :P.

So I’ve recently taken up Scrambling, (also doing a fair bit of indoor climbing to up my confidence and skill level). I’ve done a few Grade1 routes, eg: Snowdon Horseshoe last weekend, looking to expand that into the more fun and challenging areas.

The kit I’m working with at the moment is an assortment of generic hillwalking items that I collected from been about 15-25yrs old (now 28). I’ve noticed a lot of it isn’t best suited for what I’m doing and what I want to do.

The first thing I did last month was get myself a pair of new boots, which I cannot fault at all.

I noticed last weekend that my Pack is far too big and cumbersome, it was really hindering me through some of the tighter bits, it’s a big old Vango 55L+ trekking type pack. So looking at getting a climbing specific pack 35-45L mark. – Any advice recommendations? The two I’ve seen are in the following links. Just need to find a retailer for them so I can try them for fit.

http://www.deuter.com/DE/en/climbing/guide-35plus-3361117.html
https://www.ospreyeurope.com/shop/gb_en/variant-37-14

At the moment I don’t have a climbing partner so I’m having to solo what I do, but if the time arises when I have a partner and I move up to Grade3 and above stuff what type of harness do you all recommend? (I wouldn’t have thought there is a specific type for a specific discipline, but I’m probably very wrong).

And finally, I know I should ask this of the instructors at the climbing wall, and I will when I’m next there. But climbing shoes, it’s a damn minefield! Any good generic ones for beginners?

Cheers all!

In reply to Adrian Daniel:


Pretty much all the big climbing shoe manufacturers make a good beginner's shoe, or several, but they all use different lasts. Because climbing shoes need to fit more closely than regular shoes ("snug but not painful" is what you should be aiming for at this point), you need to find something that suits your individual foot shape.

Thus, going to a shop that stocks a lot and trying all their beginner shoes on until you find one that suits you is pretty much the only option.

If you're got any particular issues (feet that are particularly narrow/wide, second toe longer than the big toe, that sort of thing), people might be able to recommend specific shoes to try.

But it still boils down to having to go and try them on.

In reply to Adrian Daniel:

Well done for getting out and making the best of your scrambling on your own. slab happy is spot on with his shoe advice. Avoid a walking sack with a big gap down your back. Apart from that take a few bits if kit down to the shop and find one that's comfy. Load one up and try it on.
You've given yourself a good level to progress your scrambling onto climbing. I'd recommend getting yourself on a course or booking a few days with an instructor. Preferably in Wales, the Lakes or Scotland where you can do some multipitch. It'll make it easier to find a partner if you've got some experience.

In reply to Adrian Daniel:
I'd second slab happy's advice.... you need to try on shoes to ensure good fit and as a first pair they need to snug but almost comfy in that. I always advised beginners to consider wearing thin socks. It adds extra comfort and stops the shoes stinking, at the expense of a tiny drop in performance ... Ron Fawcett climbed UK tech 7b with socks. If the shoes are the wrong fit or too tight any pinching will become near unbearably painful after an hour or so. If nothing fits at least get the best fitting shoes you can with material that will stretch. If you find a pair that seem ideal after a few weeks use, go back and buy another pair (shoes typically only last a year or so with regular climbing and shoe manufacturers fiddle around too much with their designs ). Unfortunately its harder to find shops with a good range of shoes these days as too many climbers are 'cut their nose off to spite their face' mean and by their desperation to save a few quid on the internet have forced too many good shops into reduced stock or closure.

As for rucksacks look at climbing varieties. Ideally around 35-40 litre.

In reply to Adrian Daniel:
Sounds like you've got a lot of excitement ahead! Be warned - it's a very addictive sport

So - firstly, rucksacks. There's loads of really good rucksacks out there so I'll recommend one I've used extensively and been really impressed with - the Lowe Alpine 'Alpine Attack'. Accessibility to this model is a little lower as it's been replaced with the 'Alpine Ascent which is similar but I haven't personally used - although it has good features such as bottom access and attachment methods for axes, poles etc for when you get more technical and out in winter.

When it comes to harnesses, I recommend a durable, slightly heavier harness - this may not be as lightweight as some models, but means that it will go the distance when doing lots of scrambling in potentially wet weather, getting dirty and scraped as you move up to grade 3/V Diff and start tackling short sections of bridging/easy climbing. It also increases comfort for all-day wear. Something like the Black Diamond Momentum is cheap but will perform well.

As for shoes, I'm always a massive advocate of try before you buy, especially for first pairs when you're starting out - it's important to remember that climbing shoes will feel very different from normal shoes, and whilst you should not feel pain, a very minimal level of discomfort/'odd feeling' is to be expected - this is simply due to your feet being unused to being contacted fully by the shoes. After a few months your feet will desensitise and your first shoes will start to feel like slippers - which is what you want for easy climbing/scrambling! As mentioned by Offwidth, a thin pair of socks can make the world of difference at first.

As mentioned above when it comes to beginner shoes there are a good selection across all the brands - but three I'd recommend are the La Sportiva Tarantula, the Scarpa Velocity V and the Red Chili Durango VCR. All of these three use harder wearing rubber and have simple velcro fastenings rather than laces, making them great for intermittent use on rock and also for building up your skills in the gym, whilst maintaining a good balance of performance for a beginner shoe.
Have fun scrambling!

Cheers for the advice guys.

I sorted a harness out today and a few other little bits. I Also tried on nearly the entire selection of packs that were on offer, so I’m pretty much decided on which one of them I want. I just need to try on my last option. Not going to jump straight into it seen as it’s a fairly big financial outlay for something that’s going to last a long time.

Only thing I’m a little stuck with is shoes now. So my go-to family run shop no longer do climbing shoes as he said he only sold a handful a year due to the gyms selling them. This is fair enough.
I’ll be at the gym on Thursday so I’ll try their selection out then but from memory they only have a handful of different styles so may not find something that agrees with me. Also popped to Go-Outdoors, but soon realised that the selection there was vastly limited as well. Other than that I’m a little out of local supply.
However I’m situated slap bang in the middle of Sheffield / Manchester / Leeds, all about 40min away. Any good specialist retailers you can recommend. As there’s bound to be one in one of them, especially Sheff’.

Cheers All, Appreciated.
Adrian.

In reply to Adrian Daniel:

The climbing shop in the foundry in Sheff will let you not only try a shoe on but have a test on the bouldering wall. Not always the cheapest but ending up with a pair of shoes that are no good is very expensive.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Cheers that's a good shout. May have a ride over tomorrow

In reply to Adrian Daniel:

for a pack, I really like my Lowe Alpine Mountain Attack 35-45. just small enough for a day hike and plenty big for a two nighter (for myself anyway). comfy and light as well.

In reply to Adrian Daniel:

Don't know if it's a 'climbing' pack, but I just recently got an Osprey Stratos 36 that is brilliant (as far as I can see just from trying it on - haven't been anywhere with it yet). Plenty of adjustment, big enough for everything you'd need for a day out in the mountains, really comfy and the raised back section should help a lot with sweaty backs. Would recommend you to try one on

In reply to Adrian Daniel:

I'd suggest ClimbX Crux as a beginner's shoe. I still use mine as they're comfy and do the job
For bags, I'd suggest the Berghaus Arete. It comes in 45l and 35l and is pretty good value for money. I've had mine for a number of years and it's a decent pack. It's narrow at the bottom so feels a bit more streamlined

In reply to Adrian Daniel:

Not to do with gear but more upping your skills. Now is a great time to keep an eye out on UKC for MIA trainees and even British Mountain Guide trainees looking to take people out scrambling/climbing in preparation for their test.

I learned almost all my trad skills from BMG trainees, you wont go wrong learning from those type of guys/gals.

My go to bag for mountaineering and cragging is my lowe alpine 32L peak attack. Fits everything in no bother and has a nice slim profile.