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Catalonia Climbing Advice

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Removed User 30 May 2017
Hi

Next week I am off to a wedding just south of Barcelona for 2 days then have the rest of the week for climbing. Can anyone please recommend any areas that tick the following boxes:
-Scenic
-Good camping
-Easy bolted climbing (5s and 6s)
-River/Lake to swim in

We will have a rental car and don't mind driving a couple of hours from Barca to get to a nice area.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
J1234 30 May 2017
In reply to Removed UserBicep pou:

Abella de Conca is a good spot. Well bolted and streams to swim in. I think montserrat as ace, but its not everyones cup of tea and no river or lake ICR.
But I think this maybe the best place for Sant Llorenç de Montgai#maps
Removed User 31 May 2017
In reply to J1234:

Thanks for those tips, I'll check them out in further detail.
 Rich2002 31 May 2017
In reply to Removed UserBicep pou:

Best Camping is Siruana. and you can find enough 5 and more 6s to keep you busy for 4 days. Plus a lake to swim in. You can buy a guide book at the camp site cracking place but the easy stuff will run out. Then you have
Arboli and or Monsant withing 30 mins drive with plenty more 5 and 6s
 Alun 01 Jun 2017
In reply to Removed UserBicep pou:

Right. My specialist subject.

If you are just south of Barcelona and don't mind driving a little bit, then you must go to the Serra de Prades (Pete O'Donovan's 'Tarragona Climbs' guidebook). Forget going further west to the Lleida region as it'll be a 3 hr drive and it's only really world class in the 7s and 8s (and 9s).

In the 5s and 6s, the classic recommendation is La Mussara. It's all a bit polished now, but the routes are great and the location/views are faultless, although it might be hot.

Siurana is world famous, of course, and although it is better in the higher grades, there is plenty to go at in the 5s and 6s, so you should definitely go there, if only to say that you have.

Avoid Margalef, it is world class above 7 something but below it is rubbish.

One of my favourite crags in the region is Vilanova de Prades: only 20ish metres high, but good rock, hundreds of routes, and a wide spread of grades and easy access. Most relevantly for you, it features the best campsite in the area. I still remember going there in around 2005 and being shocked that they sold us bottles of San Miguel in the bar for 1.20€ (I'm sure things have changed by now). Otherwise, for camping, the site at Siurana is famous and has a real 'climbers vibe', which is very nice.

All this said, the most relevant question you'll face is 'how hot is it?'. Currently the temperature is in the low 20s and it is (just about) possible to climb in the sun, as long as there is shade at the bottom of the crag. But please be very careful, the sun out here is much stronger than in the UK. My suggestion would be to climb in the mornings, take a break, and then hunt the shady sectors in the evening.

Have fun
 Alun 01 Jun 2017
In reply to Removed UserBicep pou:

BTW just saw the bit about the River. La Riba has a beautiful river at the base of the valley, and loads of great climbing. Might be a bit hot there though, it's quite sheltered.
 Alun 01 Jun 2017
In reply to Removed UserBicep pou:

PPS Barça is only the football team, never the city
 Pete O'Donovan 02 Jun 2017
In reply to Alun:
Hi Alun,

I have to disagree with you about the Lleida area only being 'world class' in the higher grades.

The majority of Camarasa's best routes (for instance) are in the 5 to 7a range and the northwest orientation of most sectors in this excellent zone, combined with the cooling waters of the nearby River Segre, make this a very popular summer destination for many low/mid-grade climbers, both local and foreign. Barcelona to Camarasa is a two hour drive (at most). Nearby Sant Llorenç de Montgai also offers climb/swim combinations.

Vilanova de Prades is nice but a bit of an inferno at this time of year, and although having shaded sectors from mid/late afternoon (meaning summer climbing is possible without frying) it's miles away from anywhere I'd consider taking a swim! It's a fine winter destination, though.

Pete.

PS Some awesome 6's in Margalef if you know where to look...
 Pete O'Donovan 02 Jun 2017
In reply to Removed UserBicep pou:

Following on from my reply to Alun, I think that if you stay at Camping La Noguera, located just south of Sant Llorenç de Montgai (all mod-cons) and climb at Camarasa, followed by a swim in either the River Segre or the Sant Llorenç reservoir, you won't be disappointed. The scenery in this part of Lleida is stunning!

Pete.
J1234 03 Jun 2017
In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

Have to agree with you here. The area is awesome, I am a VS - sometime HVS 5c/6a climber and Catalunya is awesome, from single pitch to multi pitch big wall, to such an extent I am thinking of moving there. Prades is Ok and I have enjoyed Surana, but for what the OP wants Montsec is good, but topping out on the Gorros at Montserrat is pretty fine, but no rivers to swim in.

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