UKC

Afternoon,

Although I mainly climb Trad I've been getting into exploring some interesting sport crags recently (Wynd Cliff Quarry, Avon quarries and Rhossili) and I've really enjoyed it. So, is Gilwern worth a trip? Based in a Bristol, so it's only an hour but wondered if anyone had advice regarding typical conditions and best routes? Climb 5s and low 6s, typically.

Thanks in advance, Ian

In reply to ianlaw:

Yes it's ok. Nothing amazing, but if you're just going from Bristol then I'd say worth a trip. The rock is all quite solid and there's a good range of routes. If you can climb 6a there's plenty to go at. Nice view as well if I recall correctly. However the parking is very limited. A couple of very small laybys.

The only slight issue at the moment (and I've not been there this year) is that there's apparently a dead sheep under some of the routes:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=661198

But that's the 'east' crag, so the main part should be ok I hope.

In reply to ianlaw:

The dead sheep at Gilwern East has gone. The layby for Gilwern East indicated in the Rockfax is the most spacious of the possible parking spots, but can fill up.
Gilwern East is a taller and better crag IMO although there are only a handful of routes at 6a and below there. Loads of 5s at Gilwern Main, the Hindu Kush area is great at that grade, short climbs and they don't look amazing from the floor, but they are surprisingly engaging when you get on them.
A good day can be had by catching the morning sun at Gilwern East and doing Asteroids (5a) The Plumb (5b) Black Night's Rein (6a) and Dolphin Snoggin' (6a) then walk around the hill and stay in the sun for some action at Gilwern Main. All the starred routes in the Rockfax are decent, perhaps the pick of the bunch are the contrasting pitches of Pwll Du Crack (5c) (steep and pumpy) and Under a Blood Red Sky (5c) (technical and balancy).

In reply to The Ivanator:

Thank you both, some really useful information. Cheers

In reply to ianlaw:

There's some great quality rock and climbing at Gilwern East if you fancy pushing the standard a bit