UKC

Thinking about trying to do the TMB with the non-climbing misses, pack light, huts all the way. The Cicero book is in the post, so in the meantime seeking a bit of advice here...

1. have I left it too late to book huts already?

2. any suggestions for a 9/10 day itinerary using mountain huts?

3. any recommendations for time of year (this summer)?

Ta, Oo

In reply to Oo:

We did the TMB in September 2014 (started on the 1st I think) planned to do it in 8 days hut to hut but ended up doing it in 7 (guide book days generally but doubling two of them). We went clockwise starting from Tre Le champ (as we were staying in Argentiere campsite and left the van there) as I was morn keen on the stuff on the Italian/Swiss side and the two passes, and we're both a bit injury prone so didn't want to do the Les Houches/Brevent bit and then have something happen as that section is much busier/less wild (as far as you can call it that), and much easier to do in isolation.

If you can do outside of the main season I'd recommend as it was still fairly busy in September, although most people were going the traditional clockwise way which just meant you passed a lot of people in the middle of the day, but had the morning and afternoon much more to yourselves. We also went just after the Ultra-tour which I think flushed a lot of walkers off the route.

I booked all but 1 of the huts (the refuge des grands) by phone the night before from the previous hut (out of main season) which was fine, and cancelled one when we arrived at 13:00 and wanted to continue on, which they were fine with. My favourite of the main huts were Bonatti and Elizabetta (the Italian food was unsurprisingly the best!). We managed to get into the Refuge des Grands (above the Glacier des Grands) which is only manned if you book it and has cooking facilities you can use for free, but does not do food, but was in the most spectacular setting and made the climb up the the fenetre much less of a slog (you kept the height rather than going all the way up from the valley base), however we had to get the argentiere tourist office lady book it for us as the owning club was Swiss German and spoke no English.

In reply to Oo:

It has been some years since I did it, the Cicerone guide says by tradition the TMB starts 7km down valley from Chamonix in Les Houches , and takes the circuit in an anticlockwise direction.

I did it in September and only had one hut I could not get into was The Elizabetha the Bonatti hut was the best for food and accommodation I didn’t book as bad weather can mess things up , the best views were on the north and south sides, lovely walk and no midges, I took to much gear try and cut it down the Cicerone Guide mentions this.

What is hut food like for a gluten free person - anyone know?

In reply to Oo:

I can only think sparce, in the remote huts it's a set menu and they would find difficult to find an alternative choice, the food is generally very good and mostly locally sourced items, evening meal would mostly be ok as it's mostly three or four courses, but breakfast might be a light meal for you.