/ Anyone know of some epic mid-france climbing in the Dijon area?

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Kramma on 16 Jun 2017

A friend and I are travelling south to the alps and stopping off for one night in mid france to break up the journey and have a warm up on some climbs. Anything considered but classic routes/areas would be lovely to get our teeth into.

Anyone been to the Regional Natural Park of Morvan? What about Vieux-Chateau?

Thanks for any help,
K
Post edited at 01:39
davegs - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Kramma:

Can't help you with the routes I'm afraid but do have a guidebook for sale. £15 posted

Same as this one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/cka/France-Roc-1-Bourgogne-Burgundy-rock-climbing/1873665164
Fruit on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Kramma:

Vieux Chateaux is delightful. It has a stream to cool off in if it gets too hot.
thlcr1 on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Kramma:

Several years ago we did something similar and stopped of in the Yonne valley slightly to the north west of the Morvan. Climbed on the Rocher du Saussoi which was spectacular, and Rochers du Parc which was more amenable with some excellent routes. We camped at a site in Merry sur Yonne which was very pleasant. Liked the area very much and we ended up staying for an extra couple of days. Been meaning to go back one day.

Lee
HB1 - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Fruit:

+1 for Vieux Chateaux - much enjoyed in the past - time to go back!
Adrien - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Kramma:

I don't think Vieux-Château can be considered a classic area but it's lovely nonetheless, long sustained routes (about 70 I reckon?) on excellent granite, mostly in the 4-5-6 (very little in terms of 7s and above). Can get crowded on weekends though. It's a nice change from the limestone that otherwise abounds in the area.

Saussois is extremely polished up to 6b and will be darn hot in the coming weeks/months (it's supposed to hit 36C next week) as it faces south, same with Rochers du Parc. If it's really hot I believe Saffres would be the best option (though I haven't been). Also consider Cormot: long routes on blocky limestone with a mountain feel, put up as early as the 30s, a bit intimidating, sparsely bolted in the mega classics. The 5s are amazing. Mostly grades 5-6-7. The setting is great too (the drive up or down, not so much!).
baron - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Adrien:
We left Saussois 2 days ago.
Climbed at Le Parc which is slightly less polished but geez it was hot!
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Adrien - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to baron:

Yeah I can imagine, it's more of a winter crag really, had a lovely day at Saussois in February when it was warm enough to climb shirtless! The polish is alright depending on the route, and like you said it's a bit better at Le Parc. Do you know whether the far right side of the crag was still closed? (There was a pair of peregrine falcons nesting in early May.)

More suggestions that I haven't been too: Hauteroche (faces SW, over 200 routes from 3 to 8 though mostly 4-5-6), Fixin (?), Vergisson and Solutré (which I believe are close to the abbey of Cluny if you want to take a break from climbing).
The Ivanator - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Kramma:

If you drive down via Luxembourg (cheap fuel) and Eastern France then stopping in the Vosges is a good way of breaking the trip South to the Alps. Martinswand is a good crag, plenty more in that area too. UKC article about Martinswand here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=216
Aly - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Kramma:

Perhaps slightly out of the way but the sandstone crag of Berdorf in Luxembourg is one of the best sport crags I've ever been to. Not loads above 8a but brilliant long routes with a 'trad' style. Maybe not the best choice if you're after steep limestone crimps though.
baron - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Adrien:
Had a wander the length of the crag and didn't see any signs of nesting birds.
Would there be notices posted?
Jim 1003 - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Kramma:

Cormot....
Kramma on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to Kramma:

Thanks everyone that's some really useful help. UKC is full of such nice people

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